By David Landis–
Many of my loyal readers know The Gay Gourmet as an urban foodie, trotting to the latest and greatest restaurants the City has to offer. But there’s another side to this citified gourmand. For years, I’ve been an avid hiker, starting in the 1980s with an annual trip to Yosemite National Park accompanied by my good pal Paul Pretkel. In fact, we’d covered so much territory that I doubt there’s a trail at Yosemite that I haven’t at least slightly travailed. Paul and I would backpack the high country of Yosemite, but then follow our stomachs to dine at the famed and iconic Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite’s stunning Valley. Upon returning to San Francisco, we’d regain our urban culinary foothold by heading straight to feast at Joyce Goldstein’s award-winning Square One restaurant. The wilderness was terrific, but tasty food was always a must.
That’s the good news. Now for the bad. You know The Gay Gourmet rarely has a negative take on restaurants—or hotels. If I don’t like something, I’d just prefer not to write about it. But I can’t in good faith do that with the Ahwahnee anymore. That formerly grand Yosemite hotel and its illustrious dining room have become a shell of their former selves. Since Aramark took the Ahwahnee over a few years back, the service has suffered, the rooms are badly in need of an upgrade, the food is mediocre at best, and none of it befits the architectural majesty of the impressive, historic building. (Full disclosure: we stayed at the Ahwahnee Hotel after Aramark took it over when it was ridiculously called the Majestic Yosemite Hotel due to a lawsuit—and we visited for lunch this trip.) According to a recent report in the San Francisco Chronicle by Kurtis Alexander, “Hotel inspectors with AAA have revoked the Ahwahnee’s prestigious four-diamond rating, a distinction the site had held since 1991.”
But there is good news. There are two newcomers just outside the park—the Rush Creek Lodge & Spa and the renovated Evergreen Lodge—and they both offer 5-star accommodations. Best of all, their chef-driven dining rooms deliver truly innovative, fresh, and seasonal comestibles in a comfortable, mountain setting.
Both are owned by the same operators, Lee Zimmerman and Brian Anderluh of First Light Hospitality. They first bought the old Evergreen Lodge in 2002 to, as they say, “teach job and life skills to underserved Bay Area youth.” Open five years, Rush Creek Lodge and Spa was the first new lodge to open at Yosemite in 25 years. Even though it is brand spanking new with modern decor, it has the feel of a congenial hillside lodge that seemingly has been part of the landscape for years.
Located on Highway 120 about a mile from Yosemite’s west entrance (it’s Yosemite’s closest upscale lodging to San Francisco), Rush Creek has 143 rooms, suites, and two-bedroom villas, all complete with outdoor balconies. The spa is a real stunner: a Zen palace that would be at home in Beverly Hills or the Hamptons, complete with warm waterfall coves (inspired by Yosemite’s famous waterfalls) and a warm river rock bed to while away the afternoons. The resort boasts a super-sized solar-heated saltwater pool and two hot tubs; a meditation pond; a grocery store with an espresso bar; a year-round flowing creek; and a tavern and restaurant, both with outdoor seating overlooking the mountains.
Our lovely room at Rush Creek had a beautiful (and firm) king-sized bed, a modern, slate-tiled oversized shower (complete with all the refillable shampoos, soaps, and conditioners you’d ever need), a sitting area with a sofa, a refrigerator and coffee maker—and a beautiful deck overlooking a tranquil forest. Another plus? The rooms are air-conditioned (which the Ahwahnee most definitely is not). There’s no TV, so as to encourage guests to enjoy the outdoors and congregate with their own families. I also liked that each room has Alexa, so we could listen to Djavan’s Brazilian music even though we were thousands of miles from South America!
The Evergreen Lodge, on the other hand, is in a more remote location on the way to Hetch Hetchy reservoir (where San Francisco’s drinking water originates). True story: I had visited the old Evergreen Lodge (shall we say, a much more spartan version of today’s contemporary rustic offerings) many years ago. I was there with my then boyfriend (now husband) Sean and our friend Maryann when a train of Hell’s Angels motorcyclists pulled up to the Lodge for the night. Being two gay guys (and their friend) in a remote location, we didn’t know what to think. But a woman from the Angels came up to us and said, “I’m Squirrel. If any of these guys gives you any trouble, you come find Squirrel.” Believe it or not, the Angels were completely well behaved—and quiet—and we didn’t need to call upon the talents of Squirrel that night.
Needless to say, you’ll understand why my expectations were on the low side for the Evergreen Lodge. Suffice it to say the new Evergreen Lodge puts those memories to rest. The cabins are gorgeously renovated with a mountain-chic décor, the restaurant retains the old, historic bar but has added outdoor seating and the property also features a grocery store and a swimming pool on the premises.
So, let’s get to the food. The Gay Gourmet had two dinners at Rush Creek and one at the Evergreen Lodge—and I’m happy to report that all meals exceeded expectations.
At the Rush Creek, the menu is expertly overseen by Executive Chef Anthony Lemens. The wine list is surprisingly cosmopolitan, with the expected California vintages but also international wines from Italy, France, and Argentina. After my obligatory Negroni, we chose a Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio from Trentino that was crisp, dry, and delicious. But don’t overlook the craft cocktail menu: with such offerings as a Yosemite Breeze (vodka), a Sake Thyme (with Empress Gin and sake), or a Jalapeño Margarita, you may be tempted to drink outside your comfort zone.
We started our meal with a gourmet California cheese board, including a Marin French brie, Big Rock Blue, and what I believe was a California gouda (I’m guessing it may have been from Oakdale Cheese), all served with fig jam and country toast. To gild the lily, we also ordered the homemade focaccia, served with sundried tomato tapenade (we asked for olive oil as well, which was a robust and hearty complement to the bread). A pet peeve of mine is focaccia that is dry or, worse yet, day-old. Rush Creek bakes their focaccia fresh daily and it’s moist and delicious. Our second course included a caprese salad, which I’m usually reluctant to order since often restaurants serve tomatoes that aren’t ripe. Despite being miles from nearby farms, the tomatoes were juicy, fruity, and tasty; the creamy mozzarella and tart arugula provided a welcome counter-balance, all topped with a balsamic reduction and virgin olive oil dressing. We also sampled the rich, thick, and flavorful homemade tomato soup. Another night we ordered a fan favorite at the restaurant: crispy fried cauliflower, served with a unique coconut milk, sriracha, sesame seed, and sweet and sour sauce.
For our mains, I had the King salmon, perfectly cooked to a medium rare with bok choy, glazed shiitake mushrooms, yuzu (Japanese grapefruit) ginger butter, sesame seed, and scallions. My Montana-bred husband predictably had the New York strip, also cooked to a perfect medium-rare and tender to a fault, with a cabernet sauce and extra crispy fries. As an accompaniment, we selected the green beans with a deliciously-different pistachio pesto sauce. Our only disappointment was the honey cheesecake—frankly, a bit too sweet for our taste, but dense and creamy nonetheless. Other menu items fortunately cater to families, so youngsters can choose from a burger, a grilled cheese, or even a Philly cheese steak. A note about the service: in a word, excellent. One night we had the knowledgeable Cory and the next night we had his equally fun and informative wife, Linda.
At the Evergreen Lodge, Executive Chef Aaron Haas presides over a menu that has a nod to the new—and the old. Craft cocktails are a star as well, but we opted for the Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio again. The lodge is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, so we chose some of the centennial-inspired dishes. Our starter was the Evergreen version of a Waldorf Salad with apples, walnuts, celery, roasted garlic ricotta, and a roasted grape vinaigrette. (Truth be told, I haven’t seen a Waldorf Salad on a menu in years, but what a welcome addition.) We also sampled the perfectly sized and yummy beef sliders with onion bacon jam on a brioche bun (not your family’s White Castle burgers!). We split what they call “Chicken a la King,” but really, it’s more of a risotto with lemon, spring peas, and a breast of chicken in a sherry-wine harissa sauce: so comforting, but with a new take on an old-fashioned recipe. Service again is attentive but never intrusive, which contributes to the relaxing atmosphere.
One cautionary note: even though you’re in the mountains, reservations for dinner—and breakfast—are a must at Rush Creek. We tried to go to breakfast one morning without reservations and would have had to wait a half hour. Luckily, the grocery store/espresso bar has yummy breakfast sandwiches and cappuccinos to fill the gap.
Another note about access to Yosemite National Park: during high season this year (which includes the summer), permits are required to enter the park. You can’t just show up in your car or you’ll be turned away. And due to COVID, there are no shuttle buses this year. It’s also a bit of a hassle to get the permits since they’re in high demand. But if you stay at Rush Creek, they have van tours to Yosemite, so you don’t have to worry—you just book directly with the Lodge when you reserve your room.
With all this deliciousness, you’ll need to work off some new-found pounds—but don’t worry, there are plenty more trails at Yosemite that will help deliver on that front while you admire one of Nature’s most majestic destinations.
Bits and Bites
After a pandemic-induced hiatus, we decided to head back to Sam’s Anchor Café in Tiburon—and the Trident in Sausalito. Both offer up stellar views of San Francisco Bay and the City.
Sam’s, known for their Old Bay-seasoned fries, has one of the best mai tais around—modelled after the Monkeypod restaurants in Hawaii (complete with lilikoi foam on top). They also have one of the freshest and most delectable prawn salads in town. Ask for server Cinnamon, who knows the ins and outs of the menu like a pro. Just remember: there are still no reservations at Sam’s, so get there early and be prepared for a wait.
At the Trident, together with some potent rum cocktails and a great rosé wine, we sampled the Tomales Bay stone crabs (who knew they were a thing?). They were meaty and delicious and helped us forget our urban stress while staring at San Francisco’s singular skyline. At the Trident, they do take reservations, but outdoor spots get snapped up early.
Both restaurants provide an al fresco experience that’s like taking a mini-vacation with bayside dining—and you’re just a few minutes beyond the Golden Gate.
Disney+ streams a new documentary, Wolfgang, where celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck (a personal fave of The Gay Gourmet) tells all: achievements, warts, and all. Yes, he’s the culinary genius behind Beverly Hills’ celebrated Spago restaurant; yes, he oversees a worldwide food empire; and yes, he’s had great success. But the documentary also profiles his challenging upbringing as a child where he even contemplated suicide. His advice for how to succeed? Embrace failure. Says Puck, “Only people who do nothing have no failures. Then you’re really a failure.”
Wolfgang on Disney Plus: https://disneyplusoriginals.disney.com/movie/wolfgang
Yosemite
Rush Creek Lodge & Spa: https://www.rushcreeklodge.com/
Evergreen Lodge: https://www.evergreenlodge.com/
Yosemite National Park: https://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm
Sam’s Anchor Café, Tiburon: https://samscafe.com/
The Trident, Sausalito: https://www.thetrident.net/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer and a PR executive. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF, on Twitter @david_landis, email him at: david@landispr.com or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
Published on July 29, 2021
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