By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet–
With the sad news of retail giant Macy’s announcing the intent to vacate its anchor West Coast flagship store at Union Square, many have bemoaned the demise of that iconic retail district. But there’s no doubt that Union Square still is one of San Francisco’s most visited, beautiful, and beloved neighborhoods. Luxury boutiques continue to tempt shoppers, while theatres, cabarets, and good restaurants beckon. The square itself, with its signature cornerstone Canary palms, exudes a tropical and distinctive magnetism.
It got me thinking about many memorable lunches and dinners I’ve had visiting the square in the past. Yes, Macy’s has the Cheesecake Factory; Neiman Marcus has its glamorous Rotunda; and the historic John’s Grill is right around the corner. What about less-visited places?
As my pal Laura told me recently, “Hidden gems in Union Square might sound like an oxymoron to locals.” But beyond the square, if you look hard enough, there are places that aren’t apparent to the naked eye. I thought, it’s high time to promote some of these sequestered haunts. Beyond that four-block or so area are some hidden culinary and cocktail gems that deserve a shout out. The Gay Gourmet is willing to oblige.
Redwood Room at the Clift Royal Sonesta
The Royal Sonesta has taken over ownership of the historic Clift Hotel on Geary, and the Redwood Room is in a quiet corner at the back of the main lobby. The bar still sports the original redwood paneling, which according to legend is “carved from a single 800-year-old redwood tree.”
Thankfully, the new owners have returned the replicas of Klimt-style paintings, painted by Klimt’s apprentices; they’re original to the gorgeous room. The bar/restaurant is elegant, chic, and offers art deco era and modern cocktails (a bit on the pricey side, but excellent), opening at 5 pm. Ask for waitress Debbie, who is thoughtful and helpful, and makes you feel like part of the family.
I had a perfect Botanist gin martini straight up (shaken, not stirred, just like James Bond). My husband Sean ordered the Irish Bee Sting, a perky combination of Jameson’s whisky, lemon juice, honey syrup from the hotel’s own rooftop beehives, ginger syrup, and a lemon twist. Dulcet piped-in jazz music completes the atmosphere with a sophisticated touch, plus there’s live jazz every Thursday from 8:30 pm–11:30 pm. Even though we didn’t try them, Michelin star Executive Chef Daniel Corey has created what looks to be a perfect complement of elevated small bar bites (think fried calamari with jalapeño, yellowfin tuna burger, and pork cheek tostadas) to this celebrated room. Go back now!
Jeanne d’Arc at the Cornell Hotel de France
Hidden downstairs in the Cornell Hotel de France on Bush Street is the initial entrance to Jeanne d’Arc, which involves taking the fourth oldest San Francisco elevator, reminiscent of the Gilded Age. Once inside, you’re transported to Provence or perhaps the Loire Valley—a cozy, stucco-lined grotto that somehow still feels airy. The traditional French boite began its history in 1966 before shutting down during COVID-19, but recently reopened.
The romantic restaurant sports its original décor with stained-glass windows painted in France, along with one-of-a-kind artworks dotting the walls throughout. Server Talia is professional and efficient, and manager Mark and Executive Chef Bernard Moutal extend the warmest of welcomes. Speaking of Chef Moutal, he has quite a résumé. He started his career in his teens in Bourdeaux, worked at New York’s original Le Pavillion, and then headed west to open his own San Francisco restaurant, La Boucane. He first came to Jeanne d’Arc in 2000, left to helm the kitchen at the Metropolitan Club, and recently got lured back.
Gladly, the menu tends toward classic French regional cuisine, which sadly seems to be disappearing from San Francisco menus these days. We started our evening with a lovely Louis Latour Macon-Village “Chameroy” white wine from France, which hit the spot with its dry, crisp, and mineral tones. Without asking, server Talia brought crunchy homemade sourdough rolls and butter at no extra cost (another oddity these days).
I began the meal with the most delectable, creamy mushroom soup, and my husband ordered an exquisite “Jeanne d’Arc salad” with butter lettuce and Roquefort cheese. One of my favorites, the time-honored Coquilles St. Jacques (with scallops and prawns), is a welcome addition to the offerings. We guessed that the portions would be sizeable, so sadly we passed it up, but there’s always a next time! For me, the true test of any legitimate French restaurant is the Coq Au Vin (also my husband’s favorite), so he had to sample it. The verdict? Perfectly executed, juicy, and accented with bacon lardon, as well as a traditional red wine mushroom sauce. I chose the halibut special, again as a test, because most eateries overcook it. This version was moist and tender, served with an appropriate beurre blanc and caper sauce. Both dishes came with sides that you almost never see anymore: a mashed potato with grated carrot; a baked tomato au gratin that effused sweetness; and tender and fresh broccolini. Insider’s Note: One of the restaurant’s specials is the phenomenal Grand Marnier soufflé. It takes 25 or so minutes, so you need to order it at the start of the meal. The soufflé is light and airy, and served with an accompanying not-to-sweet vanilla sauce. All in all, I say put Jeanne d’Arc on your dining list. It’s a great pre-theatre choice, but it’s also perfect for a graceful, all-evening event. Vive la France!
Mastro’s
Home to the city’s best and biggest martini (with a shaker as a sidecar), as well as live music most nights, this steakhouse-oriented restaurant is secluded on the second floor above bustling Geary Street near Mason. It’s part of a chain, but a good one. Mastro’s is a dress-up kind of place which in these days of hoodies and t-shirts is a welcome respite. It’s also the kind of scene where you can see people from all different walks of life. Go for the cocktails and beef (or seafood), don’t forget the French fries, and then stay and hang out at the bar to listen to the sultry vocalist tickling the ivories.
Anzu
Another restaurant that’s not visible from street, Anzu is located upstairs in the Nikko Hotel, with an entrance on Mason Street. It’s famous for its superb sushi bar (much of the fish is flown in directly from the famous fish market in Japan), but offers a variety of Japanese, California, and other culinary-inspired delights. The wine and cocktail list is extensive. The best part? If you dine at Anzu and are going to the great Broadway shows at Feinstein’s Cabaret downstairs, they reserve seats for you.
Felix
The hidden speakeasy below the popular Vietnamese restaurant Bodega SF (also on Mason Street) is called Felix and welcomes you (if you know the password) with a neon sign of a grinning “Felix The Cat.” It’s got a retro Asian theme: dark, red, and moody. Cocktails include the Bohemian Rhapsody with Vietnamese gin, chrysanthemum syrup, and a Crème de Cassis float; and also feature the Pho Wimme, a fat-washed whiskey made with beef fat from Bodega’s pho broth. This gem also serves some small bites like house-made tom yum-flavored Chex mix and shrimp chips. There are only 36 seats, so get there early!
Bits and Bites
Elena’s Mexican
There’s a new, buzzy and luxe Mexican restaurant in town from the folks behind Original Joe’s, and it’s a winner! Called Elena’s (after Elena Duggan, one of the co-owners of OJ’s), the restaurant honors her two daughters, Catherine and Julia, whose father is Mexican.
When you walk into the airy, two-story space, you think you’re in Beverly Hills instead of West Portal. But the food is, as my colleague Michael Bauer said (and I’m paraphrasing), “some of the best Mexican food in the city since Cala closed.” Start with Elena’s Margarita and ask for it served up, with salt, with the extra Grand Marnier float. One of my pals ordered The Skinny, a less caloric version of their homemade margarita; and my husband had the effervescent slushy Aperol Margarita, a great new take on an old classic.
Main menu highlights included: thin, homemade chips and salsa, among the best in town; the Dungeness crab, avocado, and grapefruit tostada (perfectly fresh, because it’s local and thankfully still crab season); a just-enough-spicy chile con queso (we ordered the succulent ground chorizo on the side); tasty grilled cod tacos; a yummy chile relleno; a pork tamale (homemade, of course); and “Gracie’s ground beef crispy tacos,” so satisfying that I ate almost all 3 of them! “It’s like visiting someone’s Mexican home,” exclaimed my husband, while the rest of us were too busy chowing down. The capper on the evening is a light-as-air Carlota di Lemon, a several layer Mexican lemon cake that’s simply to die for. Make your reservations now, as Elena’s is the hottest new ticket in town.
Ready Pac Bistro Meal Kits From Bonduelle Fresh Americas
I just tried some tasty new at-home meals that are worth sampling. Ready Pac Bistro Meal Kits from Bonduelle Fresh Americas are currently available in California supermarketsbefore a larger national rollout. According to the manufacturers, “Each meal kit has the ingredientsfor a nutritious, delicious plant-rich meal made with real food that is not ultra-processedand takes the guess work out of healthy meal prep.Every kit includes generous portions of fresh vegetables and rice, quinoa or pasta, along with a rich and flavorful sauce, and a topping to add the final touch. They’re available in three varieties (basil pesto & pasta, teriyaki & rice, and chipotle & quinoa), and are a convenient way to enjoy a quick and tasty plant-rich meal, bursting with delicious flavors. They’re available on Instacart or at select local California supermarkets.”
Make Me Gorgeous
I just returned from the Big Apple, and one of the theatrical highlights was the one-person show Make Me Gorgeous, all about the Hollywood makeup artist to the stars, Kenneth Marlowe. It stars the uber-talented Jackie Cox (of RuPaulfame), who plays dozens of different characters in one 90-minute show filled with comedy, poignance, and heart. It’s a true story about an “oft-overlooked trailblazer in LGBTQ history, who took on many roles in life, finally transitioning to become Kate Marlow.”
In a local twist, Kenneth ends up living in a fabulous Polk Street apartment in San Francisco (which, becomes the stage set for the evening). Jackie even singled out my husband for a flirty audience engagement portion of the show. (How is it that my husband Sean always is singled out by performers?) The play is performed at the intimate theatre/cabaret Playhouse 46 at St. Luke’s on 46th Street, just down the street from the famed Joe Allen (where you can get a great burger at the bar before or after the show, and maybe see a celebrity or two). The show is extended by popular demand through March 24, so get your cute butts off to New York to see this marvelous gem before it’s too late!
Redwood Room at the Clift Royal Sonesta: https://redwoodroomsf.com/
Jeanne d’Arc: https://restaurantjeannedarc.com/
Mastro’s: https://tinyurl.com/5an89s88
Anzu: https://www.restaurantanzu.com/
Felix: https://www.instagram.com/thefelixsf/
Elena’s: https://www.elenasmexican.com/
Ready Pac Meal Kits from Bonduelle Fresh Americas: http://tinyurl.com/yck3fttz
Make Me Gorgeous: https://gorgeousplay.com/
Joe Allen: https://joeallenrestaurant.com/
Cheesecake Factory at Macy’s: https://tinyurl.com/4th8kbbu
The Rotunda at Neiman Marcus: https://tinyurl.com/ty57rnhs
John’s Grill: https://www.johnsgrill.com/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on March 7, 2024
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