By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet–
Every July, regular readers of this column know that we make a pilgrimage back to the magical burg of Carmel-by-the-Sea. Why? Because our dear pound pups, Gaston and Alphonse, go apoplectic during the fireworks in San Francisco. Luckily, actress/singer Doris Day made Carmel one of the most dog-friendly villages in California. Even better for Gaston and Alphonse, no fireworks are allowed, period. So, we pack our bags (and our dogs), and we meander the 2 hours or so south of San Francisco to this beautiful seaside hamlet.
The natural beauty of Carmel—with its storybook cottages, miles-long and dog-friendly white sand beach, and cypress trees atop promontories overlooking secret coves—is reason enough to visit. But it’s also long been a destination for artists and artistic types. According to Wikipedia, “In 1905, the Carmel Arts and Crafts Club was formed to support and produce artistic works. After the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, the village was inundated with musicians, writers, painters, and other creatives, all arriving to the growing artists’ colony after their bayside city was utterly devastated. In 1906, The San Francisco Call devoted a full page to the ‘artists, writers, and poets at Carmel-by-the-Sea,’ and in 1910 it reported that 60 percent of Carmel’s houses were built by citizens who were ‘devoting their lives to work connected to the aesthetic arts.’”
The artistry is evident everywhere: in the architecture sporting Comstock homes with rolled eaves, through the fact that this community still doesn’t have real addresses (habitants have to go to the post office every day to retrieve their mail), and further evidenced by the fact that the township doesn’t allow street lamps, such that the night sky and its myriad of stars are markedly visible. Add to that the hundreds of galleries lining the downtown streets, offering enticing canvases depicting everything from landscapes, to abstracts, to modern realism.
The artistry doesn’t stop there. In the past decade or so, Carmel has evolved from a town of, frankly, mediocre food and restaurants. to one flaunting some of the best meals around (including a Michelin-starred entry!). That’s good news for visitors—but buyers beware. There are some great hits in Carmel, and still some misses. That’s where The Gay Gourmet comes to the rescue! Here are some of the new places to go, and some of the places you can skip.
Hits
One of the newest go-to entries is located smack-dab in the middle of Carmel Plaza downtown. It’s called Nicolas Cocina de Herencia, a glamourous new elevated Mexican eatery. With its chandeliers and classy modern design, the restaurant has diners thinking they have stepped into one of the hottest new restaurants in Mexico City.
The menu specializes in Michoacan cuisine and mirrors the spirit of innovation, with such offerings as esquites (grilled street-style corn, off the cob, with cotija cheese in a creamy timbale-like shape); some of the most flavorful birria (meat stew) taquitos in a birria broth with fresh green salsa; yummy chicken enchiladas with poblano cream; and a tantalizing and unique birria queso fundido, with shredded instead of ground beef, flamed cheese, and handmade tortillas.
The cocktail menu is ingenious, with a Passion Mezcalita sporting a splash of fresh grapefruit, a Lychee Martini, and the expected Margarita (with silver tequila), among others. The wine list is extensive, with the local Monterey, Carmel, and California wines, but also interesting selections from Mexico as well. Adding to all this is the fact that Nicolas is dog-friendly, with an expansive outdoor patio to boot. And the service? Divine. We got our drinks within minutes, just like New York. My kind of place!
Salt Wood Kitchen and Oysterette at the Sanctuary is in an unlikely location in Marina, California (north of Monterey). This out-of-the-way gem is helmed by two chefs whose résumé reads like a Who’s Who of culinary talents. Executive Chef Nestor Marin and Sous Chef Alex Manzo have worked at The French Laundry, Manresa, and the Post Ranch Inn, among others. And talk about dog-friendly! This restaurant has its own “Paw-tio” menu with dog treats, a smoked 24-ounce bone and dog bowls served with rice and local vegetables.
This relative newcomer (with new chefs, a sustainable and local approach, and a new menu) is a winner. We sat on the outdoor deck with a sneak peek of the ocean and firepits for those colder Monterey Bay days. Server Henry welcomed us immediately; his affable, yet knowledgeable manner let us know we were in for a treat. We started with an Italian Jermann Pinot Grigio (dry and perfect for lunch), but the restaurant thankfully also has a full bar.
Our first bites were raw Puget Sound and Baja oysters with cocktail sauce and mignonette. We followed those with the tastiest grilled Miyagi oysters. They boasted both a flavorful but not-too-spicy kimchi butter and chive sauce (reminiscent of Korean barbecue), as well as a passionfruit and jamón Ibérico (ham) accompaniment (a unique take on “land and sea”). The bread course is from nearby Otto’s Bakery, and is a sourdough and olive bread infused with Monterey seaweed (unusual, yet addictive).
Our next course was the California Caviar (white sturgeon from the Central Valley, my favorite), with toasted blinis, shallots, egg, chives, and crème fraîche—an elegant repast for whiling away a sunny afternoon. Our final course was the avocado toast with poached local eggs on Otto’s bread. Again, this main was distinctive and satisfying. All in all, this newcomer is on its way to Michelin recognition.
Cella Restaurant and Bar is a restaurant from famed chef Cal Stamenov and has been around for a while (and affiliated with Alta Bakery), but it’s new to me. It’s located in an old adobe in the historic center of Monterey. You feel like you’ve stepped into a modern, yet historic, recreation out of Steinbeck’s world. Insider’s tip: the indoor dining room is attractive; but outdoors in the midst of the old adobes and gardens is simply enchanting, like sitting in a park in Provence.
Our starters included steak tartare with potato chips that was a savory and flavorful dish, with chervil, capers, and parsley; a from-the-garden salad with pistachio beemster cheese, pickled shallots, and walnut vinaigrette; and a summer salad with cauliflower, English peas, pecans, corn, and vadouvan (a type of French curry). For our mains, we had a delicious veggie risotto, complete with asparagus, morels, and English peas; scallops with succotash; and steak frites with bearnaise, accented by dill and spinach, and accompanied by duck fat potato fries. The perfect dessert was a delicate raspberry financier with white chocolate whip and almond streusel, which melted in our mouths.
Chez Noir is a must mention, as no list of great new eateries is complete without this Michelin-starred and award-winning restaurant in the heart of downtown Carmel. Chez Noir is deserving of all of its numerous accolades. The husband-and-wife team of Jonny and Monique Black are at the creative helm, and everything is first rate, from start to finish.
The modern interiors reflect the look of an upscale Parisian-inspired design, with a cozy and intimate bar where you can order à la carte. But the outdoor patio is another inviting dog-friendly spot, with heaters and a charming view of the Carmel street scene. The menu is a prix fixe one, yet the $150 charge per person is attractive by San Francisco standards. Standouts include chilled oysters (with tomato, horseradish, and vodka), and grilled oysters (with vadouvan, tomatillo, and lime); Wagyu beef tongue salad (sounds unusual, but tasty); sweet corn triangoli (with nduja, scallion, and garlic); dry aged brandt steak with a rich duck terrine accompaniment; and a raspberry tart that is one for the ages. To top it off, we splurged on a bottle of Billecart-Salmon rosé champagne, which made for a very special occasion. Don’t miss Chez Noir—there’s nothing like it on the Coast, in Carmel, or in the Bay Area.
It’s not new, but we still love Little Napoli in downtown Carmel. The outdoor courtyard transports you to Italy, and the reliable Italian standards like pastas and pizzas are well executed in a neighborhood eatery that doesn’t break the bank.
Misses
The newish Foray restaurant in the Stillwell Hotel I would call a work in progress. It shows great promise, but several of our dishes were over salted and we had to send them back. The design is beautiful and inviting. I’d give them another chance, but also give them time to iron out a few issues.
Also, we have always loved Lucia at the Bernardus Lodge in Carmel Valley. The sunny setting is picture-perfect, and the temperature is always at least 10 degrees warmer than Carmel-by-the-Sea. Most of our meal was very good: fresh Beausoleil oysters, a tasty, homemade mushroom soup, and the chef’s own homemade chili. But one of the true tests of any restaurant is if they can make a proper burger. We ordered ours medium rare, and it came out medium well—and although we ordered it with cheese, it arrived cheese-free. It’s hopefully a one-off thing, and I’d return because I wish this restaurant the best.
Bits and Bites
Back to real hits, Little Original Joe’s (LOJ) on Chestnut at Scott has been a super hit from day one. There’s good reason. The menu offers a streamlined version of Original Joe’s in North Beach and is tailor made for the neighborhood: a full bar, pastas, salads, specialty pizzas, and a few of the classics like chicken parmigiana. We started with a phenomenal Negroni and their house made black cherry spritz; both were excellent.
We split the light and tender beef carpaccio, which was some of the best anywhere in the city. Our second course was “Nancy’s Caprese,” a salad with tomatoes and mozzarella with fresh basil. LOJ’s does what so many restaurants should do: roast the tomatoes!
Our main was the Casarecce pasta accompanied by a spicy sausage ragù, with just the right amount of heat, and topped uniquely with a fennel pollen. The service? As at any Original Joe’s restaurant, it’s always impeccable, friendly, welcoming, and well-informed. The restaurant doesn’t offer reservations yet, so go early—or wait until it’s on Open Table.
Wayfare Tavern is smart to offer Burger Fridays—and they are a deal. The “Tavern Burger” is topped with Marin brie, and it’s moist and flavorful. Plus, you get a martini (or draft beer), all for the affordable price of $29! You can sit inside in the club-like room with private booths, but they also have a few outdoor tables on Sacramento Street as well. Go now; they’ll be moving to another nearby location soon.
The Gay Gourmet recently sampled a few liquors that are among my favorites: longtime fave Amaro Montenegro has been at the top of my list of tastiest Amaros: it’s made from 40 botanicals and its deep, concentrated flavors are mellow with a delightful aftertaste. It’s been described as “sweeter and fruitier than most bottlings, braced up by mild bitterness. The flavor profile is like a citrus-tinged sarsaparilla.”
New to me is Singani 63, a Bolivian brandy, which is floral yet fruity with notes of white pepper and caramel as well. A colleague says it’s best to try it neat to fully appreciate all the aromatics; but he also suggests mixing a “Singroni”: equal parts Singani 63, sweet vermouth, and Aperol. It’s a perfect summertime cocktail!
Junipero Smoked Rosemary Gin is locally made Junipero Gin, which launched the “birth of American craft gin” in 1996. This new flavor has “a strong juniper core, supported by soft campfire smoke. It has a big structure of juniper and bright citrus notes, with a balance of soft, smokey herbal complexity.” As a gin afficionado, I’m a bit of a purist. But I always like to challenge my palate. Junipero’s new flavor adds rosemary and Lapsang Tea, and pushes me to continue to evolve my approach to gin.
Chef Kathy Fang of FANG restaurant has now partnered with Ritual Coffee and Smitten Ice Cream to offer some interesting, new menu items. This is yet another reason to return to her delicious modern Chinese eatery.
Graton Resort & Casino is celebrating summer with the opening of its latest music venue, B-Side Lounge. Located within Bistro 101, this new space features live entertainment, weekend DJs, Sunday brunch parties, and more. B-Side Lounge offers an electrifying atmosphere with a wide range of music, both old, and new. The space features a glamorous full bar, premium lounge seating, and a lively dance floor. The menu offers a selection of local craft beers on tap and specialty cocktails, as well as nonalcoholic drinks.
Nicolas Cocina de Herencia:
https://bit.ly/46idH48
Salt Wood Kitchen and Oysterette:
https://bit.ly/3yirOK3
Cella Restaurant and Bar:
https://www.cellarestaurant.com/
Chez Noir:
https://www.cheznoircarmel.com/
Little Napoli:
https://bit.ly/4de58JP
Foray:
https://www.forayrestaurant.com/
Lucia Restaurant and Bar at Bernardus Lodge & Spa:
https://tinyurl.com/566h24ff
Wayfare Tavern:
https://www.wayfaretavern.com/
Amaro Montenegro:
https://amaromontenegro.us/
Singani 63:
https://bit.ly/4fbZxWd
Junipero Gin:
https://juniperogin.com/
FANG Restaurant:
https://www.fangrestaurant.com/
Graton Resort & Casino:
https://www.gratonresortcasino.com/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on July 25, 2024
Recent Comments