By Jan Wahl–
Danny Kaye serving Chinese dishes he cooked at Madame Wu’s. Mel Brooks holding court at Nate and Al’s. Teen throb Ricky Nelson chowing down burgers at Hamburger Hamlet. Zsa Zsa Gabor making sure everyone could see her in the front booth at Mario’s. Errol Flynn getting ready to pass out at the Cock ‘n Bull bar. Cary Grant always pausing at the top of the steps leading into the dining room at Lawry’s. Sinatra making The Farmers’ Market swing.
Hey, the stars had to eat somewhere! These images and more come to mind as I contemplate the connection between food, film, and actors of the Golden Age, especially in West Los Angeles, where I was fortunate to live in my early years. My parents would celebrate a good business week by taking my sisters and I out to eat. I used to wish it was the 1930s and 1940s so I could see the glamorous stars, the ones like Harlow, Gable, and Mae West whom I loved reading about. Seeing Rosalind Russell at Scandia and Robert Wagner and Natalie Wood at the Escoffier Room was the next best thing.
Eventually, real life blended into my obsessive movie life. I particularly watched for movies that showed food and wine. From Kate Hepburn trying to impress Fred MacMurray with a fancy roast in Alice Adams to Sean Connery ordering his martini shaken not stirred, I saw how food scenes could incorporate character, plot, and design.
I take these observations right through to now, with movies like Babette’s Feast, Eat Drink Man Woman, Tortilla Soup, and What’s Cooking right at the top of the list. But how do we forget Chocolat, Ratatouille, Jiro Dreams of Sushi, SOMM (you will never look at your sommelier the same way), Julie & Julia, The Hundred Foot Journey … somebody stop me, please!
My most delicious recent experience with food and film was at the Culinary Institute of America at Copia in beautiful Napa. In their state-of-the-art movie theatre, I watched The Taste of Things, a lavish French foodie romance starring Juliette Binoche. It was followed by an amazing dinner in the adjoining dining room/display kitchen. Heaven. Now Copia is doing it bigger and better. Dig into this!
It is called Flavors of Film: A Celebration, beginning October 12. You’ll find me there viewing 2004’s Sideways, then a Q and A with director Alexander Payne (The Holdovers, Election) and Virginia Madsen, the sensuous woman who loves wine as art in the film. She falls for Paul Giamatti, a true wine snob. After the Q and A with these true film talents, we will go on to dinner. To quote the Gershwins: “Who could ask for anything more?” As time goes on, the Copia series will show The Truffle Hunters, Goddesses of Food, Uncorked, Common Ground, and more, combined with filmmaker guests and astounding chefs.
Thomas Bensel is Managing Director of the Culinary Institute of America at Copia. He told me for the San Francisco Bay Times: “We partnered with the Napa Film Festival for the 20th anniversary of Sideways. Netflix came in, and (then) the French Consulate for Goddesses of Food and the Italian Consulate for Truffle Hunters.”
He added, “The film Common Ground is near and dear to me since I served for years on a board with farmers and love behind the scenes portrayals of the actual work from field to prep to dish. Big Night is always a favorite, along with today’s hot TV show The Bear. CIA at Copia is thrilled to celebrate the rich connection of food and film, joining us for this continuous series where culinary art meets cinematic excellence.”
It all becomes as clear as a gorgeous consommé when you go to learn more at https://bit.ly/3zK7v9h
See you at Copia! Go thirsty, don’t eat first, and wear something with an elastic waist.
Jan Wahl is a Hollywood historian and film critic on various broadcast outlets. She has two Emmys and many awards for her longtime work on behalf of film buffs and the LGBTQ community. Contact her at www.janwahl.com
Off the Wahl
Published on October 3, 2024
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