New to the Rockridge district of Oakland, right on College Avenue across from Zachary’s Pizza and Trader Joe’s, is a creative ice cream shop inspired by a grouchy little dog who hated nearly everyone (except for his owner) and the colorful exaggerated kitsch of the 1990s. The name of the shop is also a standout: Bad Walter’s Bootleg Ice Cream.
“Walter was our 16-year-old Chihuahua,” owner Sydney Arkin explained to the San Francisco Bay Times. “He was an asshole.”
When pressed why, she said that Walter loved her but nipped and growled at most of her friends. Chihuahuas as a breed are infamous for being highly sensitive, which could help to explain Walter’s ways. Dogs of this breed often keel over at around age 12, but by all accounts, Walter lived a good, long life, despite his testiness.
Arkin herself does not appear to suffer fools gladly. For our impromptu photo shoot, she did not crack a big, phony smile. Like Walter when he was around, she has become a beloved local figure. She first came to prominence in the food world during the pandemic. That is when, stuck at home like most of us, she began an illegal ice cream operation out of her Oakland living room. “Bootleg” pays homage to those rogue days.
Originally from New York, she previously worked for over a decade in advertising. She became an award-winning creative director before desiring more joy in her life. Given that she was raised on a classic diet of Froot Loops, Ben & Jerry’s, and Kraft Mac & Cheese (shapes only), it never occurred to her that ice cream could be her career.
Word got out about her delicious homemade ice cream—her advertising and social media savvy helped—and customers soon clamored for her scoops of frozen treats. The ice cream is made from “real, regular dairy” yet is lactose-free. Even for those who regularly enjoy dairy products, the lactose in them can still cause some bloating and general malaise, but that’s not so in this case.
It is the flavors of Bad Walter’s ice cream, however, that make it a destination for most. Some ingredients, like Ritz Crackers, add a savory/salty note and punch of unexpected texture. Others are cultural mashups, such as Manilla Dreams, which features ube frozen custard with banana milk caramel and Nilla Wafers. The take on s’mores, with toasted marshmallows swirled in, is supposed to be incredible. Our intrepid reporters learned that from several now-regulars while standing in line to get in, but that flavor was not available then.
The customers add to the fun: numerous happy kids with ice cream smeared on their faces, parents and other adults eager for the indulgence, and a collection of dogs whom Walter probably would have hated. The staff could not have been more friendly and welcoming. A kind fellow dished out our scoops. We chatted with his colleague Kiana, who sported a cool pop art Astro Boy shirt, before Arkin herself joined in the conversation.
The location is also a plus. The shop is just a block away from the Rockridge BART Station. There are many other great small businesses nearby, and the shop offers both indoor and outdoor seating.
Ice cream connoisseurs will note that there are other worthwhile stops down College Avenue, including Tara’s Ice Cream and Humphrey Slocombe, but those are much farther down the Avenue. Venerable Fenton’s is also just a short drive away, and Baker & Commons in the Elmwood district now offers Straus soft serve.
Bad Walter’s is a welcome addition to Rockridge, especially after Smitten Ice Cream closed there a while back. (Smitten still has its Valencia Street location in San Francisco.) As a side note, many dogs are lactose-intolerant, so some of the flavors at Bad Walter’s—such as those without chocolate—are canine friendly, or at least more so than most ice creams. And there is a warning at the website for humans drawn to the shop’s “maximalist flavors”: “You’ll clear the whole pint in one sitting.”
Bad Walter’s Bootleg Ice Cream
5800 College Avenue, Oakland
https://www.badwalters.com/
Supporting Small Businesses in the Castro & Beyond
Published on October 3, 2023
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