By David Landis, (with a lot of help from Chef Paul Iglesias, Parche and Jaji)–
I’ve heard a lot of buzz about Parche and Jaji restaurants in Oakland from numerous sources, but I have yet to get there to try them out firsthand. So, I thought, why not ask Chef Paul Iglesias to give us his personal thoughts about taking traditional recipes and reinterpreting them for modern, California eaters? What follows, in his own words, are his ideas about how “innovation and cultural identity collide in modern kitchens.”
“Food has always meant more than just sustenance to me. It’s a language, a bridge, and often, a place of belonging, especially for those of us who grew up with one foot in two worlds. My wife Sophia and I are both children of
immigrants, Colombian and Afghan, respectively, and when we opened Parche and later Jaji in Uptown Oakland, we didn’t just want to recreate the food of our childhoods. We wanted to explore what happens when you take those traditions and reframe them through a contemporary lens.
This isn’t about making food ‘fancier.’ It’s about using the tools and techniques available to us now to tell a deeper story: one that’s layered with memory, innovation, and identity. And most importantly, it’s about creating spaces where people similar to us, who maybe don’t always see their cultures represented in modern dining rooms, can feel at home.”
A New Look at Colombian Cuisine
“We opened Parche in 2023 with the goal of reintroducing Colombian cuisine to the Bay Area, this time with a different perspective. Colombian food is beautifully diverse, with roots in Indigenous, Afro-Caribbean, Arab, and Spanish traditions. But it’s often pigeonholed or underrepresented. We wanted to change that.
Take our arroz atollado, for instance; traditionally a rich, sticky rice dish from the Pacific region of Colombia. Ours is vegan, made with creamy cashew cheese, briny olives, and mild peppers. It hits the same notes of comfort and depth, but in a way that feels relevant to today’s diners. Our chicharrón ‘ceviche’ features crispy pork belly splashed tableside with a sour marinade, turning a classic into something playful and unexpected.
Much of this comes from our time in other restaurants. Before Parche, my wife and I both worked at Telefèric Barcelona and Canela Bistro, where we were exposed to Spanish-style tapas and the power of a thoughtfully curated cocktail program. That influence shows up in our format (small, shareable plates) and in our beverage list, which leans heavily into tropical fruits, herbs, and Colombian spirits.
Still, the guiding hand is personal. Parche is for my family, my parents, and my heritage. But it’s also for our kids, who deserve to grow up seeing their culture not only reflected but celebrated.”
Family History, Reimagined
“Sophia and I opened Jaji just blocks away from Parche in early 2025. If Parche was my love letter to Colombia, Jaji is hers to Afghanistan.
Walking into Jaji feels like stepping into Sophia’s family story. The ceiling is draped with 327 pieces of chiffon in the colors of Afghan poppy fields, all hand-sewn by her mother, grandmother, and family friends. Heirlooms (Afghan wedding garments, drums, and photos) line the walls. The space is deeply rooted in tradition. But like the food, it doesn’t stay there.
At Jaji, we didn’t want to simply copy the dishes Sophia grew up with, we wanted to reinterpret them in a way that felt authentic to our lives today. Our ‘Ducktu’ dish is a great example. Traditionally, Afghan mantu are dumplings filled with ground beef and served with yogurt and split peas. Ours are made with confit duck, slowly cooked in fat, and served with charred leeks and a ginger-miso consommé poured tableside. The flavors are all there, but the presentation is entirely our own.
Another dish, the Shola-Qorooti croquettes, is inspired by a sticky mung bean rice that Sophia’s grandmother used to make. We turned that memory into a crisp, craveable croquette filled with caramelized onions and topped with a walnut qoroot aioli and mint oil. When Sophia’s elders tasted it, they were hesitant at first. But after a few bites, they understood exactly what we were trying to do.”
Walking the Line Between Reverence and Reinvention
“One of the most common questions we get is: ‘Why not just serve the traditional version?’ And the answer to that is layered.
For one, there are already incredible Afghan and Colombian restaurants that serve traditional dishes that we love and support. Our aim was different. We wanted to create something that represented us as people raised in America and deeply connected to our cultural roots. That means giving ourselves permission to evolve these dishes while still respecting where they came from.
We also know that food is one of the most powerful tools for building community. At both restaurants, we’ve seen people bring in friends, coworkers, and partners who may have never tried Afghan or Colombian food before. We see Iranians and Pakistanis come into Jaji and say, ‘This reminds me of home,’ then bring back friends who’ve never had sabzi or pekora. That kind of cultural bridge is what keeps us going.
At the same time, we’ve had to learn how to stay grounded in our purpose. Not everyone gets what we’re doing, and that’s okay. There will always be guests who say it’s ‘not authentic enough,’ or that it’s not how their abuela or grandmother made it. But we’re not trying to replicate anyone else’s experience. We’re honoring ours.”
Building for the Next Generation
“A big part of why we do this is for our kids. We wanted them to grow up with restaurants that reflect both sides of who they are. We wanted them to walk into a dining room and see dishes that carry the story of their family. And we wanted them to understand that tradition doesn’t have to be frozen in time. You can honor where you came from while still moving forward.
And, of course, this is all possible because of Oakland. The city has embraced us in ways we never expected. It’s where we’ve built our team, many of whom are first- or second-generation immigrants themselves. It’s a place that understands the power of community and the importance of showing up for one another.”
Looking Ahead
“We’re currently working on launching BakBar, a cocktail-focused lounge hidden inside Jaji. It’s something totally new for Afghan cuisine, a space where the spice route comes alive through drinks. We’ll offer an entirely different cocktail and small bites menu there, with a focus on both alcoholic and non-alcoholic options that highlight ingredients like turmeric, cumin, coriander, and dried citrus. It’s another opportunity to blend tradition with innovation and to keep evolving.
Ultimately, our hope is that Parche and Jaji serve as invitations. To taste. To ask questions. To celebrate identity. And to see culture not as a static artifact, but as something living, breathing, and dynamic.
We don’t pretend to have all the answers. But we do know how to feed people. And, for us, that’s the best place to start.”
Chef Paul Iglesias and his wife Sophia Akbar are the owners of Parche and Jaji in Oakland.
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. You can email him at: Davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at:
www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on July 17, 2025
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