Bourbon Steak: Champagne Wishes and Caviar Dreams

By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet —

Glamorous.

It’s the one word that describes the feeling that envelops you the moment you walk into the newly reopened Bourbon Steak at the Westin St. Francis Hotel. Or, as the dearly departed Robin Leach might have said, it’s the stuff of “champagne wishes and caviar dreams.”

Actually, you enter the hotel, not through the former main entrance, but via a side door on Geary Street next to the valet. It’s not the most striking way to arrive at such a luxurious destination. But when you make your way through the hotel’s lobby and towards the former lobby, there’s a surprise: a glorious center bar, packed with people, before you even arrive at the restaurant. I’m told you don’t have to make a reservation, but my advice would be to arrive early if you care to imbibe with a proper cocktail there. (You can also reserve at Steph Curry’s fancy Eighth Rule bourbon-driven bar, off to the side of the lobby. But buyer beware: you’ll pay a pretty penny for that privilege.)

Once you ascend the stairs to the restaurant, the dining room delivers a commanding, elegant presence. Grand columns, cozy booths, potted palm trees, and descending globe chandeliers dominate the room, creating a space that impresses memorably. Conceived by design firm AvroKO, there’s an innate sense of grandeur, ala the fictitious Harmonia Gardens. Yes, we could all break into a chorus of “Hello, Dolly!”

This is not just another chain restaurant. It’s touted as an “elevated steakhouse,” and, yes, celebrity chef Michael Mina oversees 11 of these chophouses. His Mina Group also now oversees more than 30 total restaurants, including Pabu Izakaya and International Smoke in San Francisco, and Bungalow Kitchen in Tiburon. But this is a bit of a homecoming for this talented culinary artist. You might recall that Chef Mina collaborated with Chef George Morrone at the now-shuttered financial district icon Aqua, which opened in 1991. Its understated
sophistication, along with its inventive seafood offerings, made it one of my favorites for years.

A venerable classic, the Compass Rose at the Westin St. Francis, operated in the space beginning in 1982 and was a throwback to old-school refinement. Its wood-paneled walls, high ceilings, and crown moldings reeked of historic style. Fast forward. When Chef Mina took it over in 2004, and named it eponymously, the food was terrific. But I personally was left dumbfounded by the monotonous beige redesign by Barbara Barry (or, as my husband dubbed her, “Barbara Boring”). Mina then moved his namesake restaurant to the former Aqua space and opened his first Bourbon Steak at the Westin, which operated from 2010 until 2016.
Subsequently, the restaurant at the hotel became a private event spot from 2016 through 2023.

But, now, Bourbon Steak has reopened. And that is a cause for celebration.

When we arrived on a weekday for our 5:30 pm reservation, there wasn’t a seat available at the bar. By the time we got seated and settled, slowly but surely every seat in the restaurant was filled. Needless to say, it’s a popular place and, I would add, a special occasion destination. That means one needs to reserve early.

I ordered my Hendrick’s gin martini (a steal at $17), and my friend John ordered the one Cabernet Sauvignon that’s offered by the glass. That wine, from Chimney Rock, weighed in at a whopping $96 for a 9-ounce pour! Clearly, nothing comes cheap here.

We decided on a special menu hand-selected by the chef. (Insider’s tip: the “Big Spread” tasting menu seems to be a better value, compared to ordering à la carte.) The offerings began with a surprise: a mushroom “cappuccino” soupcon of soup that was creamy and flavorful, whetting our appetites for the offerings to come. Our server also brought duck fat French fries served three ways (smoked paprika, parmesan, and herb & garlic). I’d recommend foregoing the added “truffle,” which isn’t real truffle, but truffle oil (a chemical substitute that, in my humble opinion, masks the real potato taste). An unusual—but tasty—mix of tuna and wagyu beef followed.

Next, our server delivered a personal favorite of mine, Chef Mina’s longstanding classic tuna tartare, diced and mixed with quail egg, pine nuts, mint, garlic, and habanero-sesame oil. The combination is refreshing and the addition of habanero adds the right amount of tang and spice. The chef then sent out the crab cake pop tart, which is a playful modern interpretation of a childhood classic. The flaky crust—nothing like the original—melts in your mouth. The traditional Caesar salad added a welcome garlic streusel instead of the usual croutons for additional crunch.

For our “main event,” we chose the Kona Kampachi with bok choy, a light and delectable alternative to the steak offerings, along with the boneless wagyu ribeye. That ribeye was a standout, cooked to a perfect medium rare and sliced so the flavor permeates the dish. But the restaurant’s signature steak dishes also include everything from filet mignon to New York strip, as well as lamb chops. Accompaniments included light-as-air onion rings with a spicy dipping sauce; a yummy, creamed spinach (one of the best in town); and luscious, buttery whipped potatoes.

You’d think we didn’t have room for dessert—but oh, no! We had to try the warm beignets. They are delightfully crispy on the outside, yet fluffy on the inside, just like the famous ones at New Orleans’ Café du Monde. To gild the proverbial lily, the beignets came with three side sweets: Macallan 12 butterscotch pudding (a hit), crème brûlée with fresh raspberries (delicate, yet velvety), and a well-executed milk chocolate pot de crème. Chef Mina calls these confections a “strong finish,” and I concur.

The service is knowledgeable and attentive, without being “in your face.” While it’s a big room, somehow you still can talk to your fellow diners without yelling. Another plus!

So, when you’ve got that special occasion coming up—birthdays, anniversaries, weddings, or divorces (lol)—splurge and take your date to Bourbon Steak. It might cost you a pretty penny, but it’s worth it!

Bits and Bites

I recently got back from another trip to that beautiful coastal town of Carmel. I’ve found a great new (to me) restaurant that spins homey, tasty meals at an affordable price. That eatery? Nora’s. It’s run by the same local folks who own and operate Anton & Michele, Tree House Café, and the Village Corner,and the clan touts their “comfort cuisine” and “cherished family recipes.” There’s indoor and outdoor seating, so it’s ultra dog-friendly (Gaston and Alphonse approved!). It’s a popular place, and when we arrived for our reservation, they weren’t quite ready—so they offered us a complimentary glass of wine! (Who does that anymore?) What to order? My favorites included San Marzano creamy tomato soup to start, and the chef’s meatloaf with mashed potatoes, gravy, and green beans for the entrée. But you can also choose from fried chicken and waffles, house chicken pot pie, slow-roasted braised chuck roast, pastas, cioppino, pan-seared salmon, and more. So, put Nora’s on your dining list for the next time you travel down the coast.

Bourbon Steak San Francisco: https://tinyurl.com/j8dxaps5
Nora’s: https://www.norascarmel.com/

David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. You can email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at:
www.gaygourmetsf.com

The Gay Gourmet
Published on Januar 15, 2025