By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet–
I’ve been fascinated by Filipino food and culture since my dear pal and Parisian restaurant blogger Randy Schwartz-Diaz cooked up a stupendous spread at his abode years ago. Scrumptious adobo, lumpia, and more tantalized the taste buds in a way that no other cuisine did for me.
Fast forward to today. While there have been numerous Filipino restaurants in San Francisco, none have hit the mark the way the hip, new Abaca does. It’s located in the fancy, remodeled Kimpton Alton Hotel at Fisherman’s Wharf. The hotel affords gorgeous rooms, some with a bay view, for an amazingly affordable price. Abaca, the resident restaurant, elevates Filipino cooking to the next level. Even The New York Times named it to its 2022 Best Restaurant list. In short, go there now.
Abaca is a Philippine herbaceous plant of the banana family. That theme sets the stage for a restaurant which, from the minute you walk in, transports you to a tropical paradise. It’s fun, casual, contemporary, and buzzy.
Part of the reason for the party-like atmosphere? The Alton Hotel is “rooted in 1970s counterculture,” and each room has an old-time record player. You can borrow vinyl records at the front desk to play in your room. Continuing that motif, there’s a DJ playing 70s funk and disco in the lobby (which extends to the restaurant), so that lively vibe is infectious, but not too loud. The black and white tables have gold/chartreuse banquette accents that look retro while still being modern. There’s also a chic bar along one wall of the restaurant, and a tempting beautiful outdoor dining area protected from the street.
Our uber gay-friendly waiter Aller (he said his name is “Allergy” without the “gee”) welcomed us. He did what many waiters fail to do these days in the city. He was informed about every aspect of each menu item and the inventive cocktails, while being simply delightful.
The menu extends the playfulness, too. There’s a “secret” menu of California-inspired Filipino street food (accessible only through a QR code); plus, there’s a tasting menu (for the reasonable amount of $85); and, there’s an order-ahead Kamayan (meaning you eat with your hands) multi-course dinner for $95. The Kamayan choice arrives on a long bamboo platter lined with banana leaves, delivering a visual punch. For added impact, the oysters are offered up in a vertical tree branch!
The wine list is ample, with plenty of domestic and international wines from which to choose. But I’d opt for the ube (Filipino purple yam) colada, which is unique, not-too-sweet, and colorful to boot.
What to order? Here are the Gay Gourmet’s recommendations: Miyagi oysters with calamansi (Filipino limes), mango, and habanero, delivering the right amount of spice; Lola’s pork lumpia with mango stone fruit ketchup in a lettuce wrap—the lumpia are crispy, non-greasy, and light; Kangkong water spinach fritter with a vegan bagoong (fermented fish sauce), garlic aioli, and tomato; and a signature dish, the Sisig fried rice with chicharron (fried pork crackling), poached egg (you’ll want to mix it in), and pickled onion. For dessert? The Sans rival: a melt-in-your-mouth Filipino almond meringue layered cake with buttercream and brie foam!
Talented chef Francis Ang is in the kitchen, ensuring quality at every step of the way. No wonder: his résumé includes stints at the Fifth Floor and Dirty Habit, among others. Clearly, he is a chef to watch.
Bits and Bites
A Gay Gourmet favorite in Chinatown, Empress by Boon, has a new seasonal menu, and it’s a winner. The restaurant’s gorgeous, modern teal décor is an anomaly for new eateries by being both warm and inviting. With its gorgeous city and bay views, Empress by Boon offers a prix fixe tasting menu, and the portions are right-sized ($108/person, a deal for what you get). But you can still order à la carte at the bar.
The cuisine is Cantonese Chinese with a Malaysian influence. What’s on the new menu? California prawn with seaweed and green wasabi mustard to start; a scallop and Kaluga caviar roll—a modern interpretation of the traditional egg roll that is both crispy and light as air; pink steamed shrimp and white squid dumplings in the most delicious hot and sour soup I’ve ever tasted with just the right amount of heat (plus, those dumplings are made to look like real shrimp and squid with edible eyes!); a fresh Half Moon Bay snapper with soy, tamarind, fish stock, and a bean curd skin, accompanied by white beans; and Kurobuta pork on a refreshing slice of watermelon, with a light plum sauce.
For the mains (served family style), we shared a roasted crispy chicken with spicy sesame sauce; wok-tossed peanut sprouts with Chinese chive flowers; and a Dungeness crab and scallop sticky fried rice. The dessert was a delight: a passionfruit cheesecake with grapefruit/orange gelée, accented with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.
The wine list is extensive, and cocktails (which we didn’t try this time) are creative and fun, including Take Me to The Disco, with vodka, gin, cassis, crème de Violette, elderflower, and citrus. In addition, our server Colin made the dinner a dream; he is efficient, and informed, but with a dash of humor. In short, Empress by Boon is better than ever! P.S., Empress by Boon’s “cousin” restaurant (Chef Boon helped launch this eatery) is the more casual Blue Whale in Cow Hollow. It’s delicious, more Chinese, has a gorgeous luxe interior, a full bar, a great wine list, and is more affordable. Plus, it has an outdoor, sheltered courtyard.
Corner Bar in Mill Valley is the reimagined Coho right smack dab in the middle of downtown. The feel is warmer, darker, and more pub-like than before. They’ve got a successful formula: a fun, entertaining bar-like atmosphere (no reservations), but with delicious food to match. That’s the reason it’s been popular from the get-go. Standouts included a delectable salmon tartare on perfect latkes, and the creamiest duck liver mousse with plum jam to start; duck wings l’orange with Grand Marnier orange glaze, chives, and crushed black pepper; the Corner burger (always a true test for the Gay Gourmet), with house-ground beef, Havarti cheese, tomato jam, cucumber (a refreshing touch!), pickled red onion, and the unexpected but tasty tzatziki house-cut fries.
What really took the cake for me was the dessert: vanilla gelato, but innovatively topped with pistachio, olive oil, fried basil, salt, and crushed black pepper. Absolutely yummy! The drinks, including my Botanist gin martini, were another favorite, especially because the bartenders believe in the heavy pour! Go early so you can grab a seat and watch the Mill Valley parade from the expansive windows.
Holey Moley has just opened its indoor miniature golf course/restaurant in the Mission. I haven’t been yet, but it sounds like a gas. Located in the former Urban Putt, the venue boasts “two nine-hole courses of golf that pay homage to cultural icons from the 80s and 90s and beyond, complemented by neon signs and playful decor that transport visitors to a wonderland of fun.
The menu at the adjoining Caddyshack features Americana bites with a California-inspired twist, including: Cali Loaded Fries with seasoned black beans, cheese, pico de gallo, crema, guacamole, jalapeño, and salsa; Lettuce Cups with golden tofu, chili crunch, cucumber, avocado, sesame, and cilantro; a Mushroom Burger; and an array of pizzas like Ricotta Margherita with San Marzano sauce and charred heirloom tomatoes, almond ricotta, balsamic reduction, and fresh basil. Signature drinks include a nod to bathtub gin with the Rub a Dub in the Tub—a drink made with gin, Aperol, lime, and peach, topped with prosecco, and served in a bathtub cup adorned with rubber duckies. Time to tee off!
Abaca:
https://www.restaurantabaca.com/
Empress by Boon:
http://www.theempresssf.com/
Blue Whale:
https://bit.ly/3WQy6Kq
Corner Bar:
https://cornerbarmv.com/
Holey Moley/The Caddyshack:
https://tinyurl.com/34u6yecr
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on August 8, 2024
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