By Dina Novarr—
For many years, Dry January has represented a short break for folks to reset their lives and abstain from alcohol after the holidays. But, as the month comes to a close, it helps to remember that, for many, this is a lifetime commitment, not a one-month hiatus. Samantha Zatkoff-Batton is one such person. She stands behind the bar at the Berkeley Country Club with the confidence of someone who knows exactly what belongs in a French 75, and knows why she’ll never drink one again.
At 33, she’s the Food and Beverage Manager at one of California’s most prestigious country clubs. She is also a trans woman who came out at 30, a former Marine, and sober. She’s building a beverage program that authentically celebrates beverages: alcoholic, low alcoholic, and non-alcoholic.
Since entering the beverage industry in 2024, Samatha has risen faster than anyone I know. There is something inspiring about watching someone grow into a role that feels like a natural fit. Despite that, her path wasn’t linear. After leaving the Marines, she struggled with unemployment and depression, using alcohol to cope. It was during this time adrift that she decided to transition. She told me for the San Francisco Bay Times: “Even on that first day, I knew it was the right decision. But I still relied on alcohol to deal with stress.”
Meeting her partner Dean Cooper in February 2024 changed everything. “He helped me gain the confidence to be my authentic self and pushed me to better myself,” she said. “He helped me see who I was, even when I struggled to see it.” With that support, she achieved sobriety and found work, first as a bar cook, then as a server at the Berkeley Country Club, quickly moving into a bartender position, and two months later being promoted to Food and Beverage Manager on her 1-year anniversary at the club.
It was there that Samantha ascended into her true self. As she said before taking her first job at the country club, “no more boymoding” and instead living a life fulfilled by “talking to new and interesting people each day, [and] helping them in a small but meaningful way.” It was her dream job and it was terrifying. But now she’s using that position to make sure no one feels like an afterthought.
One of her signature cocktails is “The First Squeeze,” built around Abstinence Spirits
and Pathfinder. Abstinence Spirits is a non-alcoholic line founded by Ranwei Chiang. The cocktail showcases the botanical complexity quality non-alcoholic spirits can achieve. The name carries multiple meanings: the first juice pressed from fruit, the first embrace of a new way of being, and the first step toward authenticity. And what is serendipitous is that Samantha found her path through abstinence, and, in doing so, raised the bar on how she shows up. Her drink is the type of non-alcoholic option that makes you feel excited, not apologetic. It is a choice just as sophisticated as ordering a martini or a vintage Bordeaux.
Samantha choosing Abstinence Blood Orange Aperitif reveals something profound about sobriety and queer identity. Three years ago, right after Ranwei launched Abstinence Spirits, her partner Delta came out and began transitioning. They’ve been married for 13 years, and Delta’s journey coincided with building a business centered on helping people find themselves through moderation and sobriety.
“Through Abstinence Spirits, I realized what a wonderful space the NA world is for people, and especially queer people [like Delta],” Ranwei said. “We love hearing people’s stories and bringing great tasting alternatives to support their moderation or abstinence goals in their journey to find themselves.” That phrase “find themselves” echoes through both Samantha’s and Delta’s stories of coming out, getting sober. Both require being honest about who you are. Both require support and spaces where you can exist authentically.
Samantha came out at 30 and became sober that same year. Delta’s transition happened as her partner, Ranwei, created a business supporting transformation. Both understand that the journey to authenticity often requires letting go of alcohol, of pretending, or both. There is something powerful about the NA space for queer folks, Samantha and I reflected. When people spend years hiding who you are, drinking to cope, and then you come out, people should not have to trade one form of hiding for another. You want to show up fully. That includes being honest about sobriety, exactly what Samantha embodies.
The Berkeley Country Club might seem like an unlikely place for “sober curious” trends and queer visibility, but Samantha’s work proves that quality non-alcoholic options transcend demographics. Members in recovery, pregnant members, and those on medication all deserve the same hospitality. And, increasingly, the most innovative thinking comes from people who understand exclusion intimately. Real hospitality isn’t about what you serve. It’s about making everyone welcome at the table, especially when their glass honors exactly who they are and who they’re becoming.
The First Squeeze
1.5 oz Pathfinder
1.5 oz Abstinence Blood Orange Aperitif
1.5 oz tonic soda
Pour ingredients into a cocktail shaker with ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Cut a 2-inch strip of orange peel using a paring knife or vegetable peeler. Rub the peel around the rim of the glass to add scent to every sip.
San Francisco-based Dina Novarr enjoys sharing her passion for fine wines, spirits, non-alcoholic craft beverages, and more with others.
Cocktails with Dina
Published on January 29, 2026
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