Bits and Bites: The Column

By David Landis–

As my regular readers know, with my Bits and Bites section, I try to keep my readers abreast of news in the restaurant industry in the Bay Area. But lately, it’s been hard. With only two columns a month, and everything that seems to be exploding foodwise in our market, it’s been a challenge.

So, I thought: it’s time to catch up. Herewith is a full column devoted to Bits and Bites, with a lot of new places and products worth your while.

Perrier-Jouët

First up, I had the pleasure of recently attending an idyllic luncheon at Brix in the Napa Valley, hosted by champagne producer extraordinaire Perrier-Jouët with the winemaker Severine Frerson (Perrier-Jouët’s first female winemaker) in attendance. The setting is bucolic: you’re dining among the vineyards with views toward Napa’s surrounding mountains, all while sipping and sampling some of the best champagne and food pairings around.

Our luncheon started with a greeting of Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut. It was clean, floral, and fresh, setting the mood for what was to come. Perrier-Jouët’s newest non-vintage release, Blanc de Blancs—complex yet subtle—followed to accompany a picked-from-the-garden baby green salad with home-grown strawberries, herbed goat cheese, and a lemon balsamic vinaigrette. The cleanness of the champagne provided a welcome counterpoint to the tanginess of the dressing.

To accompany the mains of grilled salmon with tomato beurre blanc and roasted Mary’s chicken, we sampled both a 2013 Belle Epoque Brut and a 2013 Belle Epoque Brut Rosé (my personal fave!). In my humble opinion, every lunch is more special with a quality bubbly rosé (this one is made from both Pinot Noir and Meunier grapes).

A surprise finale included a very special Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs from 1999, which Severine personally had brought all the way from her wine cellar in France. The winemaker has described it as “crisp and clean, with hints of almond and nougat. While the cuvee is light and elegant, it has a surprisingly long finish.” The Gay Gourmet thought it was the perfect complement to a smattering of sweets, including honey panna cotta with lavender shortbread, carrot cake, and a salted caramel and chocolate tart. All in all, Perrier-Jouët should be at the top of your list when you’re looking for a quality champagne. And add Brix to your must-visit restaurant destinations in Napa.

Rodney Strong Vineyards

I wasn’t as familiar with Rodney Strong’s more upscale single vineyard offerings, but I have to say I’m quite impressed. I recently tried the 2018 Alexander’s Crown Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2018 Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon. They’re all winners. The Alexander’s Crown might be my personal favorite, but the Rockaway is a close second. Alexander’s Crown is bold as a California Cabernet should be, but has softer tannins to balance the fruit flavors of blackberries and black currant. It’s refined and smooth, and a perfect pairing for your filet mignon or even a hamburger at home.

Rockaway has more concentrated flavors, described by the winemaker as “dark plum and red current with notes of tobacco and leather.” Brothers packs more of a punch and has a sharper edge, but for the California Cabernet lover in the household, they won’t be disappointed. It may be even better if you lay it down in your cellar for a few years.

Symington Family Estates—Quinta do Vesuvio Wines—at Farley, Cavallo Point

I also attended a lovely luncheon and wine tasting for Symington’s Quinta do Vesuvio wines from the Douro Valley in Portugal. The setting was the recently-renovated Farley’s Restaurant at the gorgeous Cavallo Point Lodge in Marin County, with breathtaking views of the Golden Gate Bridge. First off, I hadn’t been back to Farley’s since pre-pandemic. The renovation makes the space lighter, brighter, and more inviting. We were sitting in the room with dead-on views of the Bridge and the Bay—a reminder why we love living here in the Bay Area.

Back to the wines! I had traveled to the Douro Valley a few years ago and was anxious to revisit some of their reds. I’m happy to report that Quinta do Vesuvio wines are elegant, smooth yet complex, and utterly captivating. Our host was Symington winemaker and category manager Mariana Ferreira de Brito, whose charm and knowledge made our afternoon very special. The luncheon started with one of my personal top choices, the Comboio do Vesuvio Douro from 2019. This silky wine has, according to the winemaker, “bright aromas of red fruit and rock rose, rich plum with notes of fresh herbs, and clove on the palate.” What I liked best was that it paired well with all of our starters: everything from poached prawns to corn truffle arancini and smoked trout rillette. That’s a sign that a wine has flexibility!

Our second wine, the Pombal do Vesuvio Douro 2019, had a little more edge to it, with hints of balsamic. The next two wines, the Quinta de Vesuvio Douro 2019 and 2011, held up well with my entrée choice of Farley’s excellent Niman Ranch burger. Both wines are well-balanced, shoswing elements of florals, oak, and natural acidity.

For our finale to accompany the chocolate caramel tart, Mariana poured the Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port from 1995—simply delicious. Often, I find port wines a little too stringent. This one was smooth and velvety, and paired well with the sweetness of the tart. Quinta do Vesuvio wines are affordably priced and available at K&L Wine Merchants, D&M Liquors, and more, and at such San Francisco restaurants as Ozumo, Pink Onion, and Nightbird.

San Francisco’s historic Ferry Building Marketplace, our own gastronomic food hall, celebrates 125 years this July. Many festivities are planned, including: the Clocktower Crawl summer shopping promotion (through mid-August) and the Summer Ferry Fest on August 17.

David Landis and Jan Wahl at The Fairmont San Francisco

There’s a new steakhouse in town and it’s one to watch. My fellow San Francisco Bay Times columnist, Jan Wahl, introduced me to Gallo Rosso Italian Steakhouse in Sausalito. Chef Salvio cut his teeth working in restaurants owned by Robert De Niro and has opened a spacious, yet contemporary, nod to the steakhouses of yesteryear (complete with a Frank Sinatra play list). First off, his steaks are the real deal: corn fed and tasty. The wine list has an array of both Italian and California choices to please any palate. Among the standouts there: a to-die for Caesar salad with homemade, tangy dressing that doesn’t drown the crispy spears of romaine; a steak sandwich that instead of slices of steak has a real one-inch steak between two slices of homemade Italian bread; house-made pappardelle with wild boar ragu that melts in your mouth it’s so tender; and a homemade tiramisu with real chocolate chips that’s a perfect ending to the meal.

My husband and I just spent a great weekend in Los Angeles and there’s a terrific new (to me) Italian eatery called Nerano in Beverly Hills that’s top notch. Owned by gay husbands Andy and Carlo, the restaurant is intimate, chic, and full of gorgeous art. And then there’s the food. My pal Sophie Gayot (of the Gayot Guide) has called their pasta Francobolli alle cime di rapa vongole (pasta with rapini, clams, and toasted breadcrumbs) “most likely the best pasta I ever had.” We loved their pizzas, cocktails, and more. But even more fun, once a month during the summer, the couple hosts one of the best drag brunches ever in the outdoor garden. The brunches benefit Rainbow Railroad, which helps LGBTQ+ folks escape violence in their home countries around the world. Bravo, Andy and Carlo, and keep up the good work and great food!

Andy Brandon-Gordon and Carlo Brandon-Gordon,
owners of the restaurant Nerano in Beverly Hills

I had the honor of attending a recent luncheon hosted by the Tourism Authority of Thailand at Farmhouse Kitchen Thai Cuisine on Florida Street (they have several locations throughout California). How have I never been here? It’s first-class. First off, the establishment is partly gay-owned and super LGBTQ friendly (with Pride flags peppering the décor throughout the dining room).

The luncheon specials for one are enough to feed a very hungry family and include 3 courses. I selected the beef wrap with mint, cilantro, and cucumber; mieng kum kung with shrimp; a spicy and sour tom yum soup with chili paste; a very tasty (and filling) pad thai with tofu; a vegetarian samosa with coconut curry; and a vegan fresh roll. Their jasmine rice is a berry blue color that stands out on the plate, and tastes even better.

The restaurant’s own mai tai was a welcome accompaniment—and they used the real Trader Vic recipe. The tourism board wants to remind our LGBTQ community that we are welcome to visit—and Thailand is rolling out the red carpet to LGBTQ travelers. Having just visited there, I can vouch for the friendliness of the Thai people, how safe it is for LGBTQ+ folks, and how fun Bangkok is! Plus, if you’re transgender, the country offers a wealth of gender affirming surgery options at a reasonable cost.

There’s a clubbable new, fun, underground speakeasy bar open to the public in Union Square called The Felix. You first look for a neon sign with Felix the cat on Mason Street, then push the photo of a man on the wall to gain entrance to the hopping space one flight below. The venue is Chinese hip and cool, decorated with Prohibition era photos, graffiti, and mahjong tiles. But best of all, the drinks are creative—and potent. Think a “Bohemian Rhapsody” with Vietnamese gin, crème de cassis, and chrysanthemum syrup. The Felix is a sister operation to the popular upstairs Vietnamese eatery, Bodega SF. The joint fills up fast, so get there early!

I’m a big fan of Feinstein’s at the Nikko, where you can hear some of the best Broadway stars live in an intimate and upscale setting. And upstairs, Anzu Restaurant has one of the best sushi bars in town. Executive chef Adam Mali presides over a kitchen where the quality is always first-rate. I’m consistently impressed with their simple yet perfect maguro nigiri. Their fish is flown in fresh from the Tsukiji market in Tokyo, and sourced as well from Hawaii (tombo, halibut) and the Farallons (wild salmon). You can count on an always-perfect miso soup, plus their varied selection of California, French, and Italian wines. It’s a terrific pre-theatre choice.

Copain Wines: With its 2021 vintage, Copain Wines has, in the spirit of transparency, started listing ingredients for their wines. These include: grapes, SO2 (sulfur dioxide), and tartaric acid. I’ve recently sampled a couple of Copain’s new wines. The 2022 Daybreak white blend is, according to the winemaker, “a light, fresh, easy-drinking white wine where the art of the blend takes center stage. Composed of seven white varieties from four distinct Sonoma County sites, this wine celebrates the terroir-driven characters of its components: exotic aromatics from Viognier and Gewürztraminer, acidity, and brightness from Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, mid-palate intrigue from Pinot Grigio and Picpoul, and structure from Chenin Blanc.”

The winery also has a new P2 red wine, described as a wine “first made by accident in 2009 and (which) has developed a cult following among the most fervent of Copain enthusiasts.” To create this wine, made up of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Pinot Gris, Copain selected two vineyards in the Sonoma Coast AVA. This coastal region gives grapes with bright, energetic fruit characteristics and vibrant acidity, which in turn make a fresh and existing wine. The Pinot Noir comes from a vineyard along the far reaches of the Sonoma Coast, contributing bright, tart Pinot Noir flavors; while the Pinot Gris hails from a grower on the outskirts of Santa Rosa. Both are worthy of a taste!

I just received a fun new book titled Dragtails: Fierce Cocktails Inspired by Drag Royalty. With a forward by RuPaul Drag Race superstar Raja Gemini, Dragtails spotlights inventive libations inspired by such queens as Monet X Change, Danny La Rue, Delta Work, Jinkx Monsoon, Manila Luzon, and more. Published by White Lion publishing (an imprint of The Quarto Group), the other co-authors are drag photographer Greg Bailey and recipe developer Alice Wood. Look for such great new concoctions as an “Absolutely Alien” (gin and lemonade, inspired by Juno Birch), Grand Maha-Raja (with sambuca, Grand Marnier, and lemonade, inspired by Raja), and Piñarita (a tequila drink with pineapple, inspired by Manila Luzon).

This just in: Serena and David Fisher, the owners of Michelin-starred Marlena restaurant (which I profiled recently), are opening a new restaurant in Pacific Heights in the former Gardenias space. They’re partnering with Hi Neighbor Hospitality Group and the working name of the restaurant is 7 Adams. Stay tuned.

The beloved Harvey’s in the Castro has a new owner: the owners of Beaux have taken it over and promise to expand next door and offer up a great new LGBTQ+ gathering place, complete with great drinks, pub food, and dancing. Can’t wait!

Original Joe’s in North Beach is now serving lunch again Thursdays and Fridays and brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. What a welcome development for the neighborhood! Italian-American staples, big portions, convivial surroundings, and indoor or parklet dining with a view of Washington Square make it a lunchtime destination! My favorites include the shrimp cocktail appetizer, wedge salad, fish and chips on Friday, thick-cut French fries, great pastas with old-time red sauces, Joe’s special scramble, an excellent Pinot Grigio on tap no less, the butterscotch pudding, and an old-fashioned ice cream sundae. Plus, it’s the best charbroiled burger in town and enough for two (and they don’t judge you for ordering American cheese with that!). Ask for waitress Jan, who is saucy, sassy, and fun!

Dita’s has just opened upstairs from The Trident in Sausalito and is offering up four-course European-Asian fine dining. And speaking of The Trident, they’re celebrating the 50th anniversary of re-inventing the Tequila Sunrise. For every Tequila Sunrise ordered, the establishment will donate $3 to refurbish Sausalito’s sea lion statue, which was damaged in the recent storms.

Congratulations to Korean SF-based restaurant Bansang, which just received Michelin’s Bib Gourmand recognition! Well-deserved and another great addition to restaurant row on Fillmore.

Also, the San Francisco Wine Society just received a Wine Spectator Rising Star Wine Restaurant award for 2023. 41 other San Francisco restaurants were honored as well. Congratulations!

Drumstick, the ice cream brand headquartered in Oakland, is celebrating its 95th birthday. Bravo!

A sad bit of news. After more than 100 years in business, San Francisco’s own Anchor Brewing Company is ceasing operations. You’ve had a great run and we’ll remember your iconic Anchor Steam Beer. As of this writing, though, employees have expressed an interest in purchasing the brewery, so stay tuned!

And Michelin just announced their 2023 winners and bravo to Liam Mayclem for hosting the awards from the Chabot Space and Science Center in Oakland. The Bay Area won big. Lots of folks retained their Michelin stars, but congratulations to new winners: Nari, Aphotic, Chez Noir, Auro, Pomet, Chef Harrison Cheney of Sons & Daughters, Josh Schafer of Single Thread, and John Haffey of Carmel’s Aubergine.

David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com

Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com

The Gay Gourmet
Published on July 27, 2023

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Bits and Bites: The Column