By David Landis–
When one thinks of that lovely town of Carmel-by-the-Sea, one conjures up visions of fairytale cottages, undiscovered alleys and courtyards, beautiful white sand beaches, and Mediterranean-inspired architecture. It’s an easy 2-hour drive from San Francisco, but it’s a world away.
The Gay Gourmet has visited this wonderful town for years. Known as one of California’s most dog-friendly hamlets, Carmel is just north of picturesque Point Lobos and Big Sur, as well as home to the historic Carmel Mission, many wineries and tasting rooms, and numerous art galleries. Iconic actress and animal activist Doris Day resided there for years. While still alive, she opened one of the country’s first dog-friendly luxury boutique hotels, Carmel’s famed Cypress Inn. Actor and former Carmel Mayor Clint Eastwood still resides in this burg.
There are many reasons to visit this charming village. But, sad to say, one doesn’t always think of “great food” when one visits Carmel. Luckily for Bay Area visitors, that’s beginning to change.
The Gay Gourmet visited Carmel several times during the pandemic and has come up with a Baker’s Dozen of places to dine in style. Best of all, you can take your dogs!
La Balena – In The Gay Gourmet’s humble opinion, this is Carmel’s best restaurant. Owner Emanuele Bartolini hails from Florence, but trained with some of the best chefs in Manhattan: at Le Cirque and also with Mario Batali and Alain Ducasse. Homemade pastas, a carefully curated Italian wine list, and a stunning outdoor courtyard make dining at this neighborhood, rustic Italian spot truly special.
Cultura Comida Y Bebida – Believe it or not, Carmel plays host to some of the best Oaxacan-inspired Mexican food on the Monterey Peninsula. Cultura boasts an extensive, top shelf tequila, mezcal and margarita bar, a full bar, and a splendid courtyard to boot. Smoked pork cheeks with mole, yam enchiladas, and crispy chapulines (grasshoppers) are just some of the unique offerings. For a more typical meal, try the tres tacos (choose from chicken, carnitas, barbacoa, and plantain): they’re crispy, tasty, and filling, with just the right amount of spice.
Tarpy’s Roadhouse -This is a true, old-style California roadhouse, situated in the pathway of the planes landing at the Monterey airport. But no matter, this charming off-the-beaten track culinary destination offers such California standbys as a grilled Castroville artichoke, olallieberry pie, and hearty portions in an historic stone building with a gorgeous flowering courtyard.
Corkscrew Café – Out in sunny Carmel Valley, this French-style bistro is a perfect outdoor lunch spot with creative salads (I love the pear salad with chicken), a divine smash burger, and a varied wine list that goes beyond the predictable California offerings. Don’t miss the haystack-style onion rings!
Anton & Michel – More French than France, this charmer’s outdoor setting is centered around a gorgeous reflecting pool in Carmel’s “Court of the Fountains.” Favorites include classic French onion soup, panko-crusted sand dabs, duck liver pate, and crab cakes with pineapple coconut arugula salad and wild berry vinaigrette. Great French wine list, too!
Nepenthe – This throwback to the 70s has an outdoor terrace with a Big Sur view that’s even better than Italy’s Amalfi coast. The famous “Ambrosia burger” is a thing of beauty, especially while sipping a wonderful French Bandol rosé wine from the extensive wine list. You can while the day away admiring the panoramic coastline vista. (But, alas, no reservations, so get there early.)
Terry’s Lounge – Located at the late Doris Day’s Cypress Inn, this great dog-friendly bar and restaurant has one of the loveliest live jazz Sunday brunches around. Of special note is Doris Day’s famed chicken salad (with grapes) and hot-from-the-oven popovers. Great wine list and an authentic Trader Vic’s mai tai as well!
Schooner’s – Right on Monterey Bay at Cannery Row in Monterey, Schooner’s is perched just above the water with waves crashing below. You can’t go wrong with oysters, the New England-style clam chowder, and the crispy fried chicken sandwich with Castroville artichoke tapenade, aioli, fennel kraut, and arugula-seasoned fries. Go for lunch to take in the spectacular view on the sunny deck.
Passionfish – Primarily known for its seafood, this Monterey eatery brings innovative fusion style to a variety of gems from the sea. The menu features fresh, sustainable seafood, slow-cooked meats, local produce from small farms, and interesting wines from all over the world. It’s also the first area restaurant to be designated a green business. The black bean-goat cheese fritters are a tasty start and the Dungeness crab salad with spicy ginger (in season) is a winner.
Rise + Roam – This is a modern, craft bakery from the Folktale Provisions and Winery folks. It is an informal patisserie and pizzeria located next to Carmel Plaza downtown and surprises with some of Carmel’s best pastries, sandwiches, salads, and Italian-style pizzas.
Portabella – Right on Ocean Avenue in downtown Carmel, this quaint English-style cottage has one of the best mushroom soups anywhere, delicious pastas, a terrific European and Californian wine list, and inviting indoor as well as parklet dining.
Stillwater Bar & Grill – On the 18th hole at Pebble Beach, this is another perfect place for “lunch with a view.” Great salads, seafood, and cocktails (along with a varied wine list) and you can watch all the golfers miss their shots while admiring the ocean view. After lunch, be sure to drive the nearby, scenic 17-Mile Drive.
Sierra Mar – This is a special occasion, fine dining restaurant at the Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur, situated 500 feet above the ocean with spectacular views. The food is exquisite and served artfully on individual Annie Glass hand-blown creations.
Bits and Bites
Taste Awards Update: As readers of this column know, yours truly was delighted to be a judge for this year’s Taste Awards. Here’s a quick update: Local chef Joanne Weir is a winner of this year’s Taste Award for Best City or Regional Program for her Plates and Places show on PBS. On April 20 from 8–10 pm, the Taste Awards will present a gourmet dinner screening of selected award-nominated short films and features at San Francisco’s Foreign Cinema restaurant. Outdoor patio dinner reservations are highly recommended; when booking please note that you are attending for both the film screening + dinner. The Taste Awards are being broadcast throughout April on PBS stations nationwide (check local listings). For more than a decade, the Taste Awardshave been the premiere awards celebrating the year’s best in food, fashion, health, travel, and lifestyle programs in film, television, online & streaming video, podcasts, radio and photography.
San Francisco’s Old Skool Café celebrates 10 years with a gala celebration event at 6 pm on April 12 in Mendell Plaza in the Bayview. This youth-run supper club provides hospitality vocational training for at-risk youth and proceeds from the event will help continue to fund these much-needed programs. Watch this space for an upcoming feature about this terrific organization.
La Balena: https://www.labalenacarmel.com/
Cultura Comida Y Bebida: https://www.culturacarmel.com/
Tarpy’s Roadhouse: https://www.tarpys.com/
Corkscrew Café: http://www.corkscrewcafe.com/
Anton & Michel: https://www.antonandmichel.com/
Nepenthe: https://www.nepenthe.com/
Terry’s Lounge: https://www.carmelterrys.com/
Schooners: https://schoonersmonterey.com/
Passionfish: https://www.passionfish.net/
Rise + Roam: https://riseandroambakery.com/
Portabella: https://www.portabellacarmel.com/
Stillwater Bar & Grill: https://tinyurl.com/2fumd9tf
Sierra Mar: https://tinyurl.com/e72cusjr
Taste Awards Screening at Foreign Cinema: http://foreigncinema.com/
Visit Carmel: https://www.carmelcalifornia.com/
Old Skool Café: https://www.oldskoolcafe.org/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
Published on April 7, 2022
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