By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet—
Aren’t we lucky to live in the Bay Area? There are so many destinations within reach: Napa/Sonoma, Tahoe, Carmel/Monterey, Santa Barbara, Yosemite, Mendocino, and more.
But there’s one that’s even closer, yet often overlooked: namely, Point Reyes.
Back in the day, my husband and I used to hike the Point Reyes National Seashore and then chow down at a number of homey cafes in Point Reyes Station, as well as the iconic Manka’s in Inverness. But truth be told, I haven’t been there in at least 20 years.
So, when I heard about the opening of the Olema House in Olema, as well as a new place to check out in Point Reyes Station, I thought, “Well, it’s high time!”
Olema is only a bit over an hour away from San Francisco in West Marin, but it is a world away. Once you leave our urban enclave, you traverse rolling hills, redwood groves, farmland, and more to reach an idyllic paradise.
Our “home away from home” for the weekend was the beautifully remodeled Olema House, with its resident bar/restaurant, the Due West Tavern, as well as its own well-stocked market.
When you arrive at the property, you’re immediately captivated by the gorgeously landscaped grounds that sit on several acres adjacent to a gurgling stream. The building is more than 100 years old, but looks and feels contemporary. That’s due to a recent re-do that feels, as the inn describes, “luxurious without the formality.” And great news for dog folks: Olema House welcomes your canine friends!
The genial General Manager Frank Caiazzo is a welcoming host who grew up in West Marin and clearly knows the territory. Our well-appointed suite boasted: a marble bathroom with an expansive shower, an ample living space with both a fireplace and a big-screen TV, a small but inviting deck overlooking the grounds, and a separate sleeping area. My only caveat for older guests like me is that the sleeping area is up a staircase in a loft-like setting (and hard to maneuver for those late night visits to the bathroom). So, when you reserve, you may want to look at other options that are on one level. I toured a deluxe king terrace room on the first level with a very large deck that would serve that purpose well.
Visiting the Olema House is all about relaxation. You can head up to Point Reyes National Seashore (a 5-minute drive away) for a meandering walk or more intense hike; or you can just sit and read a book while reclining in an Adirondack chair by the brook.
When you’re ready to dine, the property’s Due West Tavern is a historic bar/restaurant that is just steps away from your room. The old timey bar has a West Marin vibe (think friendly hippies), with the kind of saloon where you want to talk with your neighbors. The drinks are a heavy pour (a plus!), and Ben the bartender is on top of his game. For dinner, we sampled the chicken pot pie served on a flaky crust (better than The Big Four) and the homemade cioppino, which had the right amount of spice and is an appropriate portion for one. Service was informal, efficient, and cordial, with the right amount of fun. Next time, we’ll have to try the local Tomales Bay oysters. Don’t miss the Blue Plate specials Monday–Friday, where you get a complete meal for $29.95. I’d go back any day.
At the Tavern X Market next door, you can load up on provisions for lunch or breakfast, with specialty items like farmers’ market quality blueberries and breakfast burritos, as well as an expansive selection of wines and liquors. The market also has its own espresso bar, a real plus to help you ease into the day.
Another winner is Giaco’s Valley Roadhouse, about a 10-minute drive away in San Geronimo. This down-home eatery offers terrific al fresco dining on an expansive deck smack dab in the middle of a forest; or you can choose the wood-paneled cozy interior. This chef clearly knows what he is doing; ingredients are fresh and seasonal. We sampled a great lunch: for me, that was a sesame crunch salad with chicken, romaine, purple cabbage, almonds, wontons, and a peanut-ginger-sesame dressing that hit the spot. My husband had the Cobb salad, which, in addition to the expected ingredients, also included escarole, cucumbers, and carrots. Both were so delicious we decided to return for brunch. The Mexican omelet with pasilla peppers, roasted corn, and jack cheese, as well as the green shakshuka in a tomatillo sauce, were major hits.
After hearing all the buzz about the new Bar Auklet in Point Reyes Station, we gave it a whirl. My assessment: it’s got great intentions and possibilities, but it’s not ready for prime time yet. On the plus side, the spareribs with miso glaze were tender and juicy, and the sauce added an Asian contour to the traditional American dish. Also, the grilled mortadella with hot honey was delish—a creative approach that worked, with the right amount of sweet and tart. Service was excellent (although, like many California restaurants, we waited a long time to get a drink). I’d avoid the duck liver mousse: the accompanying huckleberries were too vinegary, the fried onions that topped the dish are cooked in advance and not crispy, and the mousse itself was way too salty. The stone fruit poke is another innovative idea, but the fruits weren’t ripe enough. With the immense and attractive farmers’ market across the street, I was perplexed by this choice. Another recommendation to the owners: it’s too cold on the outside deck (which does allow dogs), so heaters are a must, and in short supply. I’d wait another couple of months and then perhaps try this eatery again.
Another mainstay in town is the Station House Café. I’d been going there for years when it was at its former location. The new location (about a block away) has a contemporary feel, with décor to match. The upscale diner has a full bar and some creative cocktails to boot. Eggs benedict had a piquant hollandaise sauce with a kick, and my husband enjoyed his flank steak salad, cooked perfectly and served with a proper steak knife. But, sadly, the “seasonal fruit” (an added charge) was so bad that we sent it back. (Note to restaurant: as I said before, the farmers’ market is across the street!)
Point Reyes Station itself is a cute town filled with galleries, shops, and restaurants, as well as the aforementioned excellent weekend farmers’ market. It’s worth a stroll to meander through its many offerings. Also recommended: a drive up to Marshall along Tomales Bay. You’ll let go of all your urban stress while enjoying the views. If you have extra time, you can sample the local oysters (raw or barbecued) at Tony’s Seafood Restaurant (part of the Hog Island family), The Marshall Store, or the original Hog Island General Store itself.
All in all, the Gay Gourmet favors getting to the Point: Point Reyes, that is. You’ll have a lovely weekend.
Bits and Bites
As part of Emeryville Pride, Public Market Emeryville will transform into a colorful celebration of queer joy, culture and community on September 20 with Sunday Funday, a free, all-ages festival featuring drag performances, live music, cultural showcases, a queer quiz show, and family-friendly activities. The lineup will bring together some incredible Bay Area talent, including the Oakland Gay Men’s Chorus, Parangal, Folklorico Colibri, Gloomy June, and more.
Olema House and Due West Tavern: https://olemahouse.com
Giaco’s Valley Roadhouse: https://www.giacosroadhouse.com
Bar Auklet: https://www.barauklet.com
Station House Café: https://stationhousecafe.com
Point Reyes National Seashore: https://bit.ly/4hU8cR6
Tony’s Seafood Restaurant: https://bit.ly/4wRWAC2
The Marshall Store: https://themarshallstore.com
Hog Island General Store: https://hogislandoysters.com
Public Market Emeryville: https://publicmarketemeryville.com
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. You can email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on August 27, 2026
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