By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet–
The name Honolulu conjures up Polynesian images of beautiful Waikiki beach, panoramic views of Diamond Head, warm tropical breezes, hula dancers, and more. But it’s not just a surfer’s paradise anymore. The Gay Gourmet recently visited and is happy to report that Honolulu has also become an important foodie destination well worth visiting for the culinary experiences.
But let’s start with where to stay. The Gay Gourmet’s favorite is always the luxurious Halekulani Hotel. It’s located smack dab on Waikiki Beach, with the famous outdoor House Without A Key restaurant and lounge, which is home to live Hawaiian music most nights. When we were there, we were lucky enough to hear the excellent Waitiki 7 exotica band, headed by the dynamic Randy Wong. This year, however, we decided to try the Halekulani’s new hotel across the street, the Halepuna Waikiki by Halekulani. What a find! It’s brand-spanking new, with modern touches and a contemporary vibe. The excellent Halekulani Bakery is located conveniently on the first floor, where some of Waikiki’s best pastries shine. The rooms are beautifully appointed, with luxe touches like Toto bidet toilets in each room. We splurged and took a suite on an upper floor with a panoramic view of the Pacific (and a view of the Sheraton next door), a living room, a bath and a half, and two balconies. One of my pet peeves in modern hotels is not having either ample closet space or storage in the bathrooms—luckily, the Halepuna has both! And the king size bed is soft enough for my picky husband but firm enough for his even pickier husband! Best of all, the Halepuna is also home to the marvelous new Umi by Vikram Garg restaurant, one of Honolulu’s best—but more on that later!
So, what’s all this fuss about great new restaurants? Isn’t Honolulu just about coconut shrimp, bad mai tais, and mediocre battered fish tacos on the beach? The resounding answer is, “No!” Now, you can have a great time sunbathing during the day but have some real fine dining experiences at night. Here are some of my favorites.
Monkeypod Kitchen: This Waikiki outpost of the popular local Hawaiian chain has arrived at the Outrigger and its beachside location is reason enough to visit. Well, that, and you’ll enjoy one of the island’s finest mai tais, topped with lilikoi foam! Sample some fresh Kauai shrimp and Hamakua mushroom pot stickers as well as macadamia-crusted mahi mahi at this coastal café. Along with live music every day, you’re set either for dining while watching a beautiful sunset by the sea or enjoying a relaxing noontime repast.
Doraku Sushi Waikiki: It’s not new, but this casual spot for sushi and more in the Royal Hawaiian Center is, as the kids say, “the bomb.” I love the Sushi Nigiri Deluxe, the “Jumpin’ Shrimp” (basil tempura shrimp with firecracker sauce), the Wagyu beef fried rice, and the charred shishito peppers with sweet yuzu miso (but watch out for that one spicy pepper that always takes you by surprise!).
Miro Kaimuki: Off the beaten path in the working class Kaimuki neighborhood is one of Honolulu’s great new culinary finds—Miro Kaimuki. It’s a 5-course fixe prix blend of French and Japanese, with Hawaiian influences. This eatery owes its innovation to the combined talents of Chef Chris Kajioka and San Francisco’s own Mourad Lahlo, who worked together at Aziza and Mourad. At $110/person, it’s a steal for dining of this quality. You can try some creative dishes, such as: scallop, pear, and trout roe; miso beef with black garlic; sea bass with curry and long bean; and a chocolate, coffee, and hazelnut dessert combo that will set your sweet tooth tastebuds on fire.
Skull & Crown Trading Company: Tiki bars in Honolulu used to serve mai tais made of a sweet concoction of pineapple juice, rum, and grenadine. But thanks to mixologists like San Francisco’s own Martin and Rebecca Cate (of the famed Smuggler’s Cove in Hayes Valley), tiki has been elevated to an art. That art is on display at this snug and intimate Chinatown bar in Honolulu. In addition to a Mauna Kea Mai Tai (based on the original Trader Vic recipe), you can sample the Dagger Mai Tai (where all the ingredients are a secret blend), an ‘Awa ‘Awa Mai Tai (made with lilikoi and Campari) and the aptly named “Skull & Crown,” which combines Plantation OFTD overproof rum, absinthe, and more—and serves 2!
Umi by Vikram Garg: Seriously, one of the best meals I’ve had in the past year was at Umi. Chef Vikram Garg cut his teeth at the Halekulani, but at Umi, he creates his own seafood-centric restaurant that celebrates “the ocean’s harvest.” The caviar and roe are served with an innovative twist: onsen egg, Burdock cream, and finger lime. Kampachi isn’t just raw tuna on a plate; it’s complemented with jicama, fennel, and shishito vinaigrette. A creamy “popcorn soup” with lotus seeds, one of my favorites of the evening, followed. For our main, we savored a prime tenderloin that delighted with koji, okra tempura, and soy-pepper sauce. The dessert? A lilikoi (passionfruit) pavlova, with mango, hibiscus, anglaise, and 24k gold flakes to top it all. This was a meal for the ages and one that I’ll remember for a very long time.
Senia: This is still one of the best restaurants in Honolulu and I was glad to see that it not only survived the pandemic, but also has been renovated and refreshed in a way that is glamorous and sophisticated. Insider’s tip: order the tasting menu and sit at the counter, where Chef Anthony Rush personally serves you. It’s the best dinner and show in town! Also set in a storefront in Chinatown, Senia is a play on the Greek word xenia, which translates loosely to “a concept of hospitality.” The tasting menu changes seasonally, but on the à la carte menu, you can relish such tasty dishes as: porcini mushroom and gruyère tarts, kabocha croquettes, Hamachi with red pepper relish, braised beef cheeks, sea scallops with pumpkin puree, and agnolotti with Okinawan sweet potato.
Bits and Bites
I had the pleasure of visiting Sequoia Grove Winery recently with my pal and cheese author Laura Werlin. All I can say is, “Wow!” But rather than leaving it at that, I thought I’d let Laura regale my loyal readers with her own thoughts, as summarized here:
“Some winery experiences are greater than the sum of their parts—a notion that is brought home on every level by Sequoia Grove Winery. Located in the heart of the Napa Valley, this is a place where great wine, nature, hospitality, and everything that’s special about living in California converge. It starts with the namesake Sequoia grove (although they’re actually coastal redwoods*), where the iconic California native trees stand watch over the winery and surrounding vineyards. It’s also where exemplary single-vineyard, reserve, and Napa Valley appellation cabernet sauvignons are crafted by star winemaker Jesse Fox. And it’s a place where you want to settle in, whether it’s in the rustic but modern tasting room or in one of the beautifully designed outdoor spaces in the shadow of the redwoods themselves.
Best of all, you may come here for the wine, but you’ll definitely want to stay for the food. The offerings include ‘Wines + Bites’—four varietal wines paired with small bites ($85/pp; club members: free), a vertical tasting of their flagship wine, Cambium ($90/pp; club members: $55), or their signature ‘A Taste For Cabernet’ in which Chef Britny Maureze creates a lights-out multi-course tasting menu paired with single-vineyard and reserve wines ($150/pp; club members: $100). Having experienced this latter tasting with the Gay Gourmet, I can attest to its special nature and pinpoint pairings, especially Chef Britny’s exceptional wine and cheese pairings—something that, take it from me, is not so easy with cabernet. Mostly I was struck by the feeling that is Sequoia Grove, not just their extraordinary offerings. A visit there is about languishing and being well taken care of. It is the good life personified. It is also a place to taste excellent wine and understand that what’s in the glass starts with their vineyard sites, land stewardship, and immense dedication. (And, it’s dog friendly.*) All together, it sure tastes good.” Sequoia Grove Winery: In a final word (or rather two words) from The Gay Gourmet, “Go now!”*
*Indicates comments by The Gay Gourmet
Kokak Chocolates Donates to the Mostly British Film Festival: My pal and Mostly British Film Festival organizer (and former San Francisco Chronicle movie reviewer) Ruthe Stein has a red-hot tip. She says, “The audience for Pretty Red Dress, screening February 17 at the Vogue Theatre, will see red on screen and off. Patrons will be treated in the lobby to red heart-shaped chocolate truffles, each lovingly emblazoned with the words ‘Hearts on Fire.’ The artisanal treats have been generously donated by Carol Gancia, owner of Kokak Chocolates, the gay-owned and operated, deliciously hip chocolatier in the Castro. The article of clothing from which this widely-praised movie derives its title is a sparkly red frock. After purchasing it for his wife, a husband realizes he secretly covets the dress and traipses around in it when alone. To get in the mood, the Mostly British Film Festival encourages people to attend the film in something red or to show the color while in full drag.”
Halepuna Waikiki by Halekulani: https://www.halepuna.com/
Halekulani Hotel: https://www.halekulani.com/
House Without A Key: http://tinyurl.com/33mm83c2
Waitiki 7: http://tinyurl.com/5a2zfknu
Monkeypod Kitchen Waikiki: http://tinyurl.com/ternsy9d
Doraku Sushi Waikiki: https://dorakusushi.com/waikiki/
Miro Kaimuki: https://www.mirokaimuki.com/
Skull & Crown Trading Company: https://www.skullandcrowntrading.com/
Umi by Vikram Garg: https://umibyvikramgarg.com/
Senia: https://www.restaurantsenia.com/
Sequoia Grove Winery: https://sequoiagrove.com/
Mostly British Film Festival: https://mostlybritish.org/
Kokak Chocolates: https://www.kokakchocolates.com/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on January 25, 2024
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