By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet –
Aren’t we lucky to live in San Francisco? The natural beauty and light, the views, the culture, the array of winning sports teams, the diversity of people, the museums, and the Bay—oh, and, of course, the wide-ranging restaurants on nearly every corner. There’s frankly no other place I’d like to live.
On a recent Saturday, we decided to explore our fair city beyond our own little enclave. My husband and I wandered down to Dogpatch and the Minnesota Street Project, which occupies three renovated warehouses, with more than a dozen art galleries on two levels. If you haven’t been, go now. The project introduces contemporary art in an accessible and fun way, with different exhibitions on view in one convenient locale.
Our goal that day was to visit our friend Nancy Toomey’s gallery, and the art of Jud Bergeron. I’d known his work in sculpture, but his new exhibit displayed mid-century bold and colorful paintings on paper that would brighten any living space. His works brought joy and gratitude to our day, with oranges and chartreuses in geometrical juxtaposition that surprised and delighted. We were smitten.
In our smitten-ish state, we decided to try a nearby restaurant that’s new to me but has been there for a while: La Connessa on Potrero Hill. It’s one of the latest outposts run by the well-regarded Bacchus Management Group, who also manage Spruce, the Village Pub, Magic Donuts and Coffee, and more. I’ve been to Spruce many times and love the atmosphere, even if the prices give you sticker shock. (Insider’s tip: Eat at the bar there, which doesn’t take reservations, but offers à la carte dining.)
Back to La Connessa. It means “connected” in Italian and this shining and gorgeous space aims to be a place where the neighborhood can gather.
You feel that vibe the moment you enter the sprawling two-story venue. The curvilinear marble bar dominates, café chairs dot the room adjacent to the marble-topped tables, and numerous large and small contemporary glass chandeliers lend a yellow glow that makes everyone look like a Hollywood star. In short, it feels like you’ve been transported to either an upscale Parisian bistro or a welcoming neighborhood Italian trattoria.
The welcome continues with a big smile from the engaging hostess, Naomi. She could be my new best friend, making us feel like we’re the only guests in the house. But I’m sure she treats everyone with the same mixture of hospitality and professionalism.
At the table, server Roberto arrived momentarily and asked us if we would like a drink. Roberto, you just scored points with me! There’s nothing better than having a drink delivered to your table quickly, as opposed to waiting 20 minutes for someone to offer something other than water. Our classic cocktails (Beefeater Gin for me, Tito’s Vodka for Sean) were perfectly chilled and delightful. But the menu selection also offers up some creative cocktails like a “Maple Stone Sour” (bourbon, maple, orange, and lemon) or an “Elder Statesman,” (gin, elderflower, Aperol, and lime) for those who want to try something new. The extensive, 15+ page wine menu is vast, with both domestic and international varietals ranging in price from around $50 to more than $1,000.
That said, what struck me the most was how affordable La Connessa is (by San Francisco standards, of course). Starters range from $10–$24, pizzas and pastas are in the $30 range, and main courses run from $38 for the rock cod to $56 for the wagyu flank steak. Those prices are a surprise at a restaurant with this level of design and service. They don’t break the bank, and they reflect that willingness to connect to the community.
So, how’s the food? In a word, delectable. We skipped one of their signature appetizers, the focaccia di recco (a kind of flatbread with stracchino, extra virgin olive oil, and sea salt), but our neighbors shared one order for two and declared it “divine.” Instead, we sampled the fried zucchini strips (julienned and fried to a crisp, but light as air). And, in honor of my dearly departed mom, LaVerne Shirley, we opted for the chicken liver mousse. I have to try it at every eatery I visit to see if it measures up to LaVerne’s. This one did. It was melt-in-your-mouth creamy, and served with stone fruit mostada accompanied by an Italian touch of toasted focaccia bread.
Instead of pizza or a main dish, we selected the Spaghettino al Limone (with butter, lemon, black pepper, and Grana Padano). I always like to try simple dishes to test out the kitchen. This execution was light and cooked properly, not overly-citrusy, with just the right amount of pepper and cheese to add interest. We also ordered a bottle of Elena Walch Pinot Grigio from the Alto Adige ($88), a clean, mineral-driven white wine that complemented the pasta impeccably well.
Did we save room for dessert? In a word, no. But next time, the strawberry crostata with lemon-vanilla cream and whipped mascarpone might just tempt us.
So, go to La Connessa. It’s like a trip to Italy, but without the airfare while still staying in our beloved city of San Francisco.
Bits and Bites
Aren’t we lucky to have new LGBTQ+ bars opening, not just in the Castro? Mary’s on Haight has just debuted in the former Trax space and, according to The San Francisco Standard, is “a turnkey situation, and the project is likely to retain its predecessor’s relaxed, divey atmosphere.” Here’s to more divey LGBTQ+ bars!
The Final Final sports bar (“the original last call”) has reopened in the Marina and, in addition to their marvelous collection of single malt scotches, will have craft cocktails and food, to boot! Rumor has it that both Joe DiMaggio and Tim Lincecum downed a few drinks in the joint, but now the new owners have dolled up the place while still keeping the traditional vibe. And, good news: It’s open late—until 2 am on weekends!
Bill Higgins (Bix, Fog City Diner, Buckeye Roadhouse, Playa, Corner Bar) and East Brother Beer Co. are teaming up to open Tam Taverna in Mill Valley. It’s a premiere tap room & beer garden boasting elevated pub grub by chef Michael Siegel (2025 Bib Gourmand winner for Playa). This restaurant is a little bit of a homecoming. Back in the day, there used to be a very popular Tamalpais Tavern at the summit of Mt. Tam from 1897–1950s.
I recently returned with family to Waterbar, the luxe seafood eatery on the Embarcadero, for a divine dinner on the newly-christened outdoor heated patio. The Bay and Bay Bridge vistas are spectacular, but the food still shines consistently. Some of my favorites: caviar with traditional accompaniments (insider’s tip: choose the California white sturgeon; it’s the best); oysters (order the Beausoleil, if they have them); roasted Alaskan halibut; and my personal top choice, the locally-caught Petrale sole. Service is seamless, welcoming, and efficient; the ambience is captivating; the food is scrumptious; and the panoramic views make it a must-dine for both locals and visitors.
La Connessa: https://www.laconnessa.com/
Mary’s on Haight: https://www.marysbaronhaight.com/
The Final Final: https://www.finalfinalbar.com/
Tam Tavern: https://tamtavernmv.com/
Waterbar: https://www.waterbarsf.com/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. You can email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on November 6, 2025
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