By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet–
Looking for a neighborhood restaurant gem that’s worthy can often be a challenge. There are numerous “grab and go” places, or the fine dining options, but often not something in between. It’s hard to find a place where you can sip a well-made cocktail, sit down, and be served a proper meal that’s well prepared.
So, when Luna Park closed in the Mission District, there was a moment of mourning for the loss of a great American bistro within walking distance of many residents. Thankfully, reincarnation does exist! The new Luna Bar & Restaurant has risen from the ashes on Valencia Street. It’s a more contemporary culinary adventure from a pedigreed team, the owners of Wayfare Tavern. And yes, the venue still offers an affordable and tasty repast for lunch, brunch, happy hour, or dinner.
The experience starts at the door with Danny, your welcoming host and manager. The atmosphere is boisterous and fun, which at times could get loud. But it’s all part of the ambience, which makes the experience entertaining. The inviting bar, with an illuminated and elevated liquor shelf, lines the first half of the restaurant along the right side, tempting diners to sit and interact. Further back in the eatery, there are warm, maroon interiors that are punctuated by red leather banquettes accented by provocative contemporary art on the walls.
Chef Michelle Mathews has accomplished something unique: making elevated American comfort food more interesting with an Asian twist that surprises and delights. It’s no wonder. Her stints include such notable New York mainstays as Picholine (a Gay Gourmet favorite), and Daniel. Prior to helming the kitchen at Luna, she also worked at San Francisco’s Kaiyo. She keeps a watchful eye on the kitchen, but Luna is the kind of place where Chef Michelle amicably enjoys serving patrons when the restaurant is busy (which is often).
Creative cocktails like a hibiscus margarita and a “gin thang (with watermelon, cucumber and lime)” populate the clever beverage menu. We opted instead for a straight up Chopin gin martini (perfectly executed) and the Skylark Pinot Blanc from Mendocino (dry and crisp, with hints of minerality).
Moving to the salads, I don’t know why warm bacon dressing went out of style. It’s one of the most satisfying accompaniments to greens, mixing hot and cold, savory, and crunchy. Luna does a winter green chicories salad with goat cheese, a soft-boiled egg, buttery homemade croutons, and the aforementioned bacon (with mild anchovy) dressing. It could be a delicious light meal in and of itself.
Next, we shared the juicy pork skewers, which sported a zing of mango and cilantro: a surprising and tangy combination with enough heat to make them sing. For our mains, we shared one of the city’s best fried chicken offerings. This one is not your mom’s: it’s Koji marinated with gochujang, sesame, and scallions—a hot Korean sauce that I could eat every day.
We sampled the Reuben, which instead of coleslaw sported a kimchi slaw, with the expected and deliciously moist brisket, Swiss cheese, and thousand island dressing. It’s an unpredictable but delectable mixture of East and West. Thankfully, the accompanying French fries were extra crispy—the way Mother Nature intended.
The menu also offers a whole fish special, with orange, pistachio, lime salsa verde, chili oil, and salt. We didn’t try it, but it looked eminently appetizing and the neighbors dining to our left raved about it. Also on offer are a tempting Luna burger, poutine, and a local king salmon.
For dessert, we opted for the crème brûlée with orange blossom—a taste of spring in your mouth. It’s another example of Chef Michelle’s inventiveness. She takes a normal dish like crème brûlée, and makes it original with an ingredient that’s refreshing and new.
Also, a round of applause for server extraordinaire Daniela, who takes care of every need with aplomb, knowledge, and a friendly flair.
In short, Luna Bar & Kitchen is a great find. And, it’s a first-class neighborhood destination, wherever you live.
Bits and Bites
I had the pleasure recently of sampling some of the best and most elegant Italian wines on the market today, from a family-run winery in Verona called Sartori Di Verona (which means “tailor” in Italian). Paired expertly with a tasty luncheon from the new-ish Ula Restaurant & Tapas Bar in Union Square, the wines truly demonstrated their ability to bring out the best in a variety of culinary offerings.
Known for their full-bodied Amarones, Sartori has just released a complex and delicious new white wine, the 2020 Sartori “Marani” Bianco Veronese. As a wine afficionado who prefers clean and mineral white wines, this 13.5% wine is, according to the winemaker, “a white Amarone with broad shoulders.” This full-bodied but approachable vino from Garganega grapes is fermented only slightly in barrels, so it doesn’t taste oak-y. A yummy zucchini and crab croquette, along with a side of crispy Brussels sprouts, complemented the wine perfectly.
The winery’s 2018 Sartori “Regolo” Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso (named for the winemaker’s grandfather) is best described as a “baby Amarone.” It’s a mixture of Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, and Rondinella grapes. At 13.5% alcohol, it packs a punch, but in a smooth and resonant way. A fettuccine arrabbiata with olive tapenade brought out the best in this robust, yet refined, wine.
Sartori’s stars, the 2016 “Reius” Amarone Classico and 2013 “Corte Bra” Amarone Classico Riserva, showed their versatility as a great companion to the restaurant’s seared tuna (with dried fruit compote), as well as the lamb shank with red wine jus and mushroom risotto with asparagus and gorgonzola. These wines are sophisticated and classic, with both muscularity (15% alcohol), and dignity. Most of all, they’re tasty. Sartori wines are available at Ula restaurant and also online through Total Wines, BevMo, and Wine.com.
I’m hearing good things about Coho, the new seafood restaurant that took over the old Vasco space in Mill Valley. The masterminds are Luigi Petrone and Felicia Ferguson, the children of Paolo and Domenico Petrone (who started Piazza D’Angelo, and who also operate Spoonbar and Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg).
In the “how clever yet local category,” The Ritz-Carlton San Francisco’s lounge has launched new creative libations that represent a selection of iconic neighborhoods in the city. Cocktail offerings include: Negroni Sevillano (representing North Beach and made with Tanqueray Sevilla, Spanish vermouth, Campari, and orange bitters in a Riedel Rocks glass); Good Fortune (representing Chinatown and made with Tanqueray Rangpur, kumquat/ginger syrup, ginger liquor, and lime in a Vampire cup glass); and In Love With Karl (representing “Karl the Fog” and the Golden Gate Bridge and made with Belvedere, red grape and hibiscus syrup, germaine elderflower liquor, aquafaba, and lemon juice in a Riedel coupe glass).
I’m also glad to see there’s a planned rebirth of the famed Café Flore in the Castro. Who hasn’t spent many an hour idling the day away over a strong cappuccino at this pleasant indoor/outdoor corner café at Noe and Market? New owner Serhat Zorlu plans to reopen in the coming months as a sustainable seafood restaurant called Fisch and Flore.
Luna Bar & Restaurant: https://tinyurl.com/yc5dsazk
Sartori Di Verona: https://tinyurl.com/3sjb6can
Ula Restaurant & Tapas Bar: https://tinyurl.com/y7bvjjur
Coho: https://tinyurl.com/w8vwxm76
The Ritz-Carlton San Francisco: https://tinyurl.com/yyn9ybvy
Fisch and Flore: https://tinyurl.com/3fddcfmj
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com
Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on April 6, 2023
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