By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet–
There’s no doubt that the charming town of Mendocino on the North Coast of California is a mystical and magical place. Ancient redwood groves, the dramatic rocky coastline, and a gorgeous setting make this Victorian village worthy of the 3-plus hour trip north of San Francisco.
The first inhabitants were the Pomo Native Americans, followed by the titans of the lumber industry. But it was artists who saved the burg when it was in decline in the late 1950s. According to Wikipedia, “After the Mendocino Art Center formed in 1959, Mendocino experienced a forty-year art renaissance, led by artist and real estate developer Bill Zacha.” Most people may also remember Mendocino as the location where Same Time, Next Year and Murder, She Wrote were filmed. You can still stay at both places: the Heritage House for the former and the Blair House for the latter.
We’re the lucky modern-day recipients of the artistic explosion. The good news is that aesthetic expression has now even permeated the culinary arts. The result? Some terrific restaurants that hit a high bar, even for spoiled foodie San Franciscans.
So, here are the Gay Gourmet’s recommendations for a wonderful weekend in Mendocino.
Stay
Our hotel of choice is the Stanford Inn & Resort. Why? First of all, it’s one of the most dog-friendly accommodations anywhere. Our little pound pups, Gaston and Alphonse, can attest to that fact. You can dine comfortably with your canine friend in the inviting lounge, and the beautifully manicured grounds are perfect for walking leashed pooches.
I’d describe the design as artsy 1970s Big Sur woodsy comfort. Our lovely suite included a generous living area with a working fireplace; a huge deck big enough to sip a cocktail while overlooking the flowering gardens; a separate and large bedroom (with terrific lighting for reading at night and ample storage space, one of my pet peeves); a large closet; and a semi-remodeled bathroom big enough for a family of four. The ethos of this wonderful hotel is guided by mindfulness, the result of the vision of owners Jeff and Joan Stanford. In their own words, “We noted mental and physical resilience … from embracing that we are within nature; from consuming predominately whole plant-based foods; and importantly, playing with art and meditation.”
One of the manifestations of this philosophy is that the fine dining in-house restaurant, Ravens, is completely vegan. As a restaurant reviewer who is a self-proclaimed omnivore, I was admittedly skeptical. But after tasting the culinary creations at Ravens, I’ve become a total convert.
Vegan does not have to mean bland or flavorless. It can mean delicious—and it does at Ravens. Let’s start with the fact that Ravens has a full, well-stocked bar, with great brands like Hendricks and all the makings for the Gay Gourmet’s beloved Negroni. The wine list is carefully curated, mostly from nearby Anderson Valley, which in my humble opinion is an underrated wine region. We selected a Long Meadow Ranch Pinot Gris white wine that was clean and a perfect complement to the vegan delights to follow.
An appetizing amuse-bouche arrived unannounced. It was a potato frittata croquette with basil, lemon, and thyme, and this tasty morsel signaled the meal was going to be something special. For starters, we split a very creative vegan futomaki (a kind of Japanese roll) offering: two with avocado and cucumber; and two with red pepper, tofu, and cucumber. An added accent of real wasabi hit the spot. Also to share was a local roasted yellow and red beet salad with pecans and a creamy Dijon vinaigrette, tasting as if those beets had been picked just yesterday.
For his entrée, my husband Sean opted for the ravioli, stuffed with hemp sunflower ricotta, and topped with house made marinara—a classic, yummy Italian dish with a vegan twist. I chose Ravens’ sea palm pad Thai, a marvelous vegan play on a Thai classic with rice and sea palm noodles, broccoli, cauliflower, mung bean sprouts, green onion, peanuts, and cilantro. It all was delivered with just the right amount of spice. One word of warning: the portions are huge. They’re enough for two, which meant we didn’t have room for dessert. That said, our knowledgeable server Vernoica recommended the homemade strawberry shortcake with an almond crust. Next time!
If you stay at the Stanford, breakfast also is included. The menu includes such delicious vegan choices as a cappuccino with soy milk, fresh-squeezed orange juice, polenta with sundried tomatoes and cashew cream, and a buckwheat and oat waffle with fresh fruit and real maple syrup (accompanied by soy and vegetable whip butter). Simply scrumptious!
Dine
Also high on the list is the two Michelin star fine dining spot Harbor House Inn. It’s a bit of a schlep: it’s a 30 minute plus drive south of Mendocino on a windy road to Elk. But having the restaurant (which also houses a hotel) perched on a dramatic coast side cliff makes the view worth the drive. Sadly, however, on the day we visited, our famous California fog was in residence.
The special attention at this eight-table restaurant begins as you are greeted by name at the door! The dining room is modern with a nod to woodsy decor, and accented with colorful abalone shells displayed on the walls. We opted for the four-plus course prix fixe lunch (at $135/person, a bargain for this quality). I would recommend the noontime repast in order to (hopefully) enjoy the rocky North Coast view (and a better value than the more extensive $325/dinner choice). We chose a French Moreau-Naudet Chablis, a light and perfect accompaniment to our meal. I’m not sure how they do it in such a remote location, but the curated wine list is substantial.
Our midday fare began with the Harbor House’s creative interpretation of Japanese sunomono: the central focus was paper-thin sliced tuna that was so tender it tasted like butter, with cucumber three ways (cooked, raw, and fermented). The bread course featured a homemade sourdough with sea lettuce and flax seed, accompanied by cultured sea lettuce butter. They even harvest their own sea lettuce right outside their door! A rich and buttery local black cod followed, with yellow flowers and shishito peppers, adding color and spice to the silky and sweet fish.
The star of the lunch, in my opinion, was the homemade lamb sausage. The Harbor House version is a riff on cassoulet, with white mayocoba beans and mustard greens instead of mustard. Ingenious! The sausage is served with an unusual and tasty cabbage dressed with sesame and breadcrumbs, along with a farm green salad with squash blossom dressing. Then came the desserts (not just one, mind you!). First there was an “amazake” (a non-alcoholic sweet sake) custard with cucumber ice and meringue. A zucchini cake—crispy on the outside but so moist on the inside—topped with buttermilk sorbet and marigold petals followed. To finish? A bronze fennel candy. Magnifique!
Right smack dab in the middle of downtown Mendocino is the majestic 1882 Victorian hotel and restaurant, MacCallum House. What a dining surprise! Mostly, when I think of Mendocino restaurants, I think of eateries stuck in the 1980s, with mediocre selections, and even more boring concoctions. Not so at MacCallum! The food here is first-rate. On top of that, at this gem of a dining establishment, you have numerous choices of where to dine and drink: outside on the porch (perfect for dogs); inside at the cozy Victorian Era bar for an aperitif or nightcap; inside at the Conservatory with glassed-in views of the verdant gardens; or in two cozy, intimate dining rooms with their own fireplaces. We chose the outdoor porch for Gaston and Alphonse, and got to greet everyone arriving at the restaurant that night.
Again, the wine list tends toward the local varietals from Anderson Valley, so we ordered the Lichen Pinot Gris. What a terrific, crisp white wine at a truly affordable price. Another one of my pet peeves is restaurants that put “heirloom tomatoes” on the menu when they’re either out of season, not ripe, or worse yet, tasteless. That’s why one of my true tests is always to order the “heirloom tomato” salad in whatever form they’re offering. At MacCallum, that means a caprese salad with homemade mozzarella and pistachio pesto, which adds an Italian tri-color visual, along with a one-of-a-kind color texture. When they say they’re vine ripened? They are vine ripened! These tomatoes were everything: sweet, deep red, and full of flavor. Executive Chef Alan Kantor and Sous Chef Aaron Welge clearly know what they’re doing.
House-made sourdough bread arrives with softened butter (why doesn’t everyone do that?), and better yet, without a charge! My husband ordered the special duck pasta (he called it a “duck stroganoff”) with both trumpet and lobster mushrooms, cream, mustard, shallots, and white wine. It was so good, he was licking the plate. I deemed it one of the best pasta dishes we had in Mendocino. I ordered light that evening, so I had the special soup. A coconut curry soup arrived, with shrimp and chicken stock and a “kick” of cilantro, chilis, and Asian spices that made the dish sing. MacCallum’s homemade coffee fudge swirl ice cream with real caramel sauce was a perfect topper to the evening, partly because of the crispy accompanying pistachio and anise biscotti.
For lunch, Café Beaujolais’ The Brickery is truly a hidden gem. You amble down a brick walkway next to the restaurant to a surprising floral garden paradise. It’s a casual place where you order at the window, and sit at tree-hewn tables while you wait for your meal. The eatery specializes in numerous pizzas (the sausage pie is excellent) and a selection of salads, along with several craft beers and local wines. It’s divine—and also dog friendly.
Play
The Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens outside of Fort Bragg are a 47-acre wonderland of perennials, roses, succulents, camellias, rhododendrons, fuchsias, magnolias, and dahlias. Best of all, well-behaved leashed dogs are welcome. You can take your time wandering the paths through landscaped and wilderness gardens, all on your way to the most spectacular and unexpected ocean views.
Located on the property at the Stanford Inn & Resort, Catch A Canoe and Bicycles, Too offers canoes, kayaks, catamarans, and bicycles. We didn’t take part in this activity on this trip. But during our last Mendocino trip, we rented a dog-friendly catamaran that even our then dogs, Shasta & Whitney, thought was the bomb! You can easily while away a morning or afternoon down the lazy river while admiring the astounding views of redwoods covering the neighboring hillsides.
Navarro Vineyards in the Anderson Valley has astounding views of the basin and its surroundings. The tastings are, unbelievably, only $10 for non-members (and free for members)! You can also bring your own picnic lunch and sit outside (with your dog), dining al fresco, while enjoying one of the best pinot blanc wines this side of Alsace.
Stanford Inn & Resort:
https://stanfordinn.com/
Harbor House Inn:
https://www.theharborhouseinn.com/
MacCallum House:
https://www.maccallumhouse.com/
Café Beaujolais and The Brickery:
https://bit.ly/3XKhqol
Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens:
https://www.gardenbythesea.org/
Catch A Canoe and Bicycles, Too:
https://catchacanoe.com/
Navarro Vineyards:
https://bit.ly/3XWdy41
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com. Or visit him online at:
www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on September 19, 2024
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