By David Landis–
“New York, New York, it’s a helluva town.”
—Leonard Bernstein, Betty Comden, and Adolph Green; from On the Town
Those famous lyrics describe one of the most exciting cities on the planet. Post-pandemic, New York is back. With it are ravishing restaurants, haute hangouts, terrific theatre, and marvelous museums that make a trip back East a must.
As theatre fanatics, my husband and I used to make twice-a-year trips to the Big Apple, packing in 4–6 shows in a weekend. We prided ourselves on seeing the latest and greatest before the touring shows brought them to San Francisco. Then COVID-19 hit and it all came to a screeching stop, for 3 years. Thankfully, we’ve been back a couple of times this year. Suffice it to say, the energy and pulse of “the city that never sleeps” has returned. With it has come a welcoming new local spirit, where Manhattanites seem to be on their best behavior for tourists like us. The result is a destination that’s eminently hospitable, especially for LGBTQ+ visitors.
So where to go, and what to do? Lucky for you, The Gay Gourmet has a round-up of some of the premiere places to experience the best of New York (and a few klunkers to avoid).
Where to Eat
At the top of the list of destinations are always the hot places to eat. But unlike San Francisco, New York is such a vast city that you really need to have someone curate where you should spend your dining hours. Here are some favorites (and not so favorites):
Essential by Christophe: My new favorite restaurant in Manhattan, this gem that’s housed in an historic townhome on the Upper West Side is elegant, chic, glamourous, and most of all, tasty. Run by an alumnus of award-winning Joel Robuchon, Essential by Christophe is helmed by Christophe Bellanca. A native of France, he cut his teeth at the famed L’Orangerie in Los Angeles before moving to New York, working at award-winning Le Cirque. What a talent! You have two choices at Essential: a tasting menu in the more formal dining room, or a la carte selections at the more casual bar. The tasting menu offers a variety of tasting options, and we erred on the side of modesty, selecting the 3-course bill of fare. One of our guests was vegetarian, so I also selected the vegetarian option. When executed properly, I believe vegetarian cooking separates the professional chefs from the amateurs. The verdict? Amazing. A starter of tantalizing mushroom cappuccino and sweet potato mousse set the stage. Standouts included a beetroot salad that was a piece of art; warm artichoke carpaccio with chickpea emulsion; and a butternut squash cannelloni that melted in my mouth. A cardamom soufflé, as well as a dense chocolate dessert (and homemade madeleines) brought the perfect evening to a close.
Katz’s Delicatessen: This lower East Side stalwart has been all the rage since When Harry Met Sally filmed here in 1989. Being from Highland Park and always looking for a good Jewish deli, I thought it was time to try it. On the plus side, the place has a fun vibe, is packed with people, boasts typical fast-talking New York waiters, and decent half-sour pickles that arrive when you sit down at the table. Speaking of that, there’s a whole system at Katz’s. You have to get a ticket when you enter (or you can’t leave!). If you elect to get your meal at the counter you have to stand in several lines—one for sandwiches, one for drinks. Instead, go to the back of the restaurant and opt for table service. On the not-so-great side? The corned beef is sliced too thick, is a little dry, and not nearly as moist or thin as what you get at Nate ‘n Al’s in Beverly Hills. That said, all the locals say you should try the pastrami.
Union Square Café: This longstanding Danny Meyer flagship enterprise was a little hit-and-miss. The soup and salad starters were delicious. My lemon pasta was light and flavorful, but my companion’s mussels were so salty she had to send them back. The corn and blueberry sundae saved the day, bringing a bright, delectable, and innovative conclusion to the meal. Another plus? The welcoming (and humorous) service, which makes you feel as if you’re center stage off-Broadway.
La Goulue: This is a quintessential Upper East Side French spot where the ladies who lunch, lunch. Everything is consistently excellent, especially the trout, the tuna tartare, the hamburger, and the famous soufflés. The service is professional, efficient, and welcoming. Highest recommendation.
Bar Baccarat: For the most elegant establishment to quaff a drink, look no further than Bar Baccarat in the posh Baccarat Hotel on 53rd Street (across from NY’s MOMA). Located on the second floor and beyond the salon, this chandelier-laden, opulent, bathed-in-red boite boasts both indoor and outdoor terrace seating. Small creative bites (like spice roasted tri-color cauliflower) are a creative complement, and the drinks (love their Negroni) are perfect. It’s not cheap, but the bonus is that the crafty concoctions are served in Baccarat crystal stemware.
La Grande Boucherie: This is a great pre-theatre choice. It is a gorgeous Art Nouveau, authentic French brasserie, located on an alleyway between 53rd and 54th Streets and 6th and 7th Avenues, which transports you from midtown Manhattan to a Parisian square. It’s open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, making it an all-day indoor/outdoor destination. I love the vichyssoise, the foie gras torchon, the steak frites, and the classically French wine list.
Dear Irving Gramercy: Quirky, romantic, and filled with off-the-beaten-track wines and spirits, this Gramercy Park cocktail parlor with “elevated bites” even has buttons to push to summon your waitperson! Bar Director Meaghan Dorman provides seasonal influences to the changing drinks menu. There’s both indoor and outdoor seating, but my preference is the cozy and intimate interior salon.
Masseria dei Vini: A newer outpost owned by the same folks who run La Masseria in the theatre district, this contemporary Italian eatery is located near Columbus Circle. The marble cocktail bar is perfect for an aperitif (and Wine Spectator has recognized the establishment with a “Best of Award of Excellence”). Featuring the cuisine of Puglia in the south, Masseria dei Vini has homemade pastas that are a must order. The crispy fried zucchini is light and delish, the crudo makes for a great starter, and save room for the excellent chocolate cake!
Empellon: Here you will find modern Mexican fine dining on Madison Avenue in Midtown from award-winning chef Alex Stupak. Empellon, which means “to shove,” buzzes with two-story excitement. The bar is crowded with after-hours workers from nearby office buildings, so I recommend eating upstairs. It’s a bit quieter, and the food takes center stage. Don’t miss: the homemade guacamole and chips with seven kinds of salsa; the ground dry aged beef picadillo tacos; and the tomato, coriander, and watermelon salad. We selected a lovely dry, white wine, but the variety of specialty margaritas looked aptly potent!
ROBERT: Housed atop the offbeat Museum of Art & Design at Columbus Circle (there’s a worthy Taylor Swift costume exhibit on view now) is the chic restaurant ROBERT. It is a perfect lunch spot perched above a Central Park view (ask for a window table), and chef Armando Cortes steers the menu to out-of-the-ordinary comfort foods. You can sample a great Wagyu burger with tomato fig marmalade and yucca fries, a lovely jumbo Maryland crab cake with corn salad, and a luscious chicken sandwich with basil pesto and mozzarella.
Sant Ambroeus: Another New York lunch favorite, the Upper East Side location of this Italian restaurant is elegant, quiet, and sophisticated. You enter through the café with desserts, pastries, and coffees tempting you. But head to the back room, where Sant Ambroeus delivers some of the best Italian meals in the city. The vitello tonato (veal with tuna mousse) is a knockout starter; the risotto Milanese is one of the best outside the city of its origin; the minestrone is authentic; and the carciofi a rucola (shaved artichoke and arugula) salad and homemade pastas shine. Save room for the phenomenal desserts like a chocolate hazelnut crunch cake with cream.
Industry: I’m told by friends that this is a “go-to” gay bar in Hell’s Kitchen, and the design is reminiscent of Berlin’s famous Berghain nightclub. Imagine my surprise when I found out that my old pal, Bob Pontarelli, opened this hotspot. Expect drag queen shows and more, plus lots of flirting, and dancing—nd lines on the weekends.
Where to Stay
Conrad Hilton Midtown: Our hotel of choice is the Conrad Hilton Midtown; we’ve been staying at this property since it was the Rihga Royal and then re-flagged as the London NYC. The big differentiator? All the rooms are suites, many with spectacular city or park views. The location is perfect for walking to the theatre; the service is divine; and Nicole is one of our favorite bartenders at the hotel’s modern cocktail bar, Dabble.
The Pearl: A newish boutique hotel in the heart of Times Square (but off the hubbub of Broadway and 7th), The Pearl is a lovely gem that has nice-sized, updated rooms (ours had a terrace), breakfast included, a wine happy hour, and the convenience of the delicious Empire Steak House and its wine (and soon to be full) bar next door.
What to See On (and Off) Broadway
Here are some of our favorites, but always check to see if they are still running (or the casts have COVID-19!).
Titanique: This is the funniest and best-sung Off-Broadway romp. It is a hilarious spoof of the film Titanic, as well as of Celine Dion (whom you may recall sang the theme song from the movie). Marla Mindelle, who plays Celine, is off the charts. Lucky for you, this show is so popular it’s just been extended through January 7, 2024.
Some Like It Hot: This Tony-award-winning musical based on the famous Marilyn Monroe film is pure toe-tapping, feel-good Broadway. Marc Shaiman and Scott Witman (of Hairspray fame) wrote the score and you’ll be humming those catchy tunes for weeks. Christian Borle (Smash) always delivers, this time as one of the two cross-dressing musicians. And although Tony winner J. Harrison Ghee (who plays the transgender Daphne) is out for surgery, his understudy DeMarius R. Copes is a rockstar.
Merrily We Roll Along: This re-mount of the classic Sondheim musical has an all-star cast: Jonathan Groff, Daniel Radcliffe, and Lindsay Mendez. It might be the best show on Broadway right now. The score is my absolute Sondheim favorite, with such hits as “Not A Day Goes By.” Director Maria Friedman has re-configured the storyline so it finally works, and the mid-century modern set and costumes only add to the pizzaz. The story is told backwards, so even though it starts cynically, there is a happy ending. Insider’s tip: splurge and get the Ambassador lounge tickets and you have a private bathroom!
Museum of Broadway: For theatre nerds like me (and how many in our community are?!), the Museum of Broadway is a must. This newly-opened Times Square destination has it all: from Sondheim to Kander & Ebb, from Cabaret to Wicked, and more. There are even Instagrammable photo opps that make for engaging fun. There’s a lot to absorb, so make sure to spend enough time reading all the information. It’s also by reservation only so they keep the guests to a manageable number.
Ed Ruscha at NY MOMA: We were rained out so we didn’t get to see this show, but everyone is raving about this exhibition of the modern master. And NY’s MOMA’s permanent collection is a wow.
Don’t Tell Mama: This is a great after-theatre cabaret spot on 46th Street where the waitstaff/bartenders sing Broadway tunes while they’re pouring your drinks. No reservations, but you can wait next door at the renovated bar until a table is ready in the main room. They also have a small theatre in the back with bigger Broadway names, and you reserve in advance.
Perelman Performing Arts Center: This is the new downtown performing arts venue at the site of the World Trade Center and the 9/11 memorial, and it’s a winner. Clad in Portuguese marble, this giant cube glows amber at night, but is open to the public on the first floor throughout the day. Upcoming performances include a new work by choreographer Bill T. Jones.
Essential by Christophe: https://www.essentialbychristophe.com/
Katz’s Delicatessen: https://katzsdelicatessen.com/
Union Square Café: https://www.unionsquarecafe.com/
La Goulue: https://www.lagouluerestaurant.com/
Bar Baccarat: https://www.baccarathotels.com/dining/bar
La Grande Boucherie: https://tinyurl.com/y6da5r9e
Dear Irving Gramercy: https://www.dearirving.com/
Masseria dei Vini: https://masseriadeivini.com/
Empellon: https://tinyurl.com/3f3my48j
ROBERT: https://robertnyc.com/
Sant Ambroeus: https://tinyurl.com/yc4d9ne6
Conrad Hilton Midtown: https://tinyurl.com/4w44r7ss
The Pearl: https://www.pearlhotelnyc.com/
Titanique: https://titaniquemusical.com/
Some Like It Hot: https://somelikeithotmusical.com/
Merrily We Roll Along: https://merrilyonbroadway.com/
Museum of Broadway: https://tinyurl.com/yc6v5pnv
NY MOMA: https://www.moma.org/
Don’t Tell Mama: https://donttellmamanyc.com/
Perelman Performing Arts Center: https://pacnyc.org/
Industry: https://www.industry-bar.com/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com. Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on October 5, 2023
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