Paving the Way to a New Life: Izzy’s and Rainbow Railroad Help LGBTQ+ Refugees

By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet–

Many folks judge a restaurant solely on food and service. I certainly agree that those two qualities should be the main priority. That said, I also judge a great restaurant on its dedication to the community. We’re lucky that, in the Bay Area, there’s a spirit of philanthropy that is embraced by our restaurant community. But when you see it in action, as I did a couple of months ago, it’s inspiring.

In that vein, I’m proud to announce that Izzy’s Steaks and Chops is reborn—and once again, serving the community. This time, among others, they’re helping the LGBTQ+ community.

The beloved Steiner Street steakhouse in San Francisco that was a throwback to yesteryear has reopened, bringing a taste of New York sophistication to the Marina. I used to hang out there in the 1980s, when owner Sam Duvall reigned supreme. The old-fashioned mahogany booths with a signature shelf of condiments provided privacy—either for those intimate romantic moments or flirtatious flings—all while sipping dry martinis and gobbling up yummy steaks.

The good news? Izzy’s is just as good as I remember it. More on that later.

The reason why I was at Izzy’s is perhaps an even more important story. For years, thanks to my buddy (and former boyfriend) Stephen Johnson in Toronto, I’ve supported a nonprofit called the Rainbow Railroad. The organization is, in their own words, “a global charitable organization that helps at-risk LGBTQ+ people get to safety. More than 60 countries criminalize homosexuality—12 of which impose the death penalty—and LGBTQI+ people are uniquely vulnerable to systemic, state-enabled homophobia and transphobia, persecution, and violence. These factors often displace them in their own country or prevent their ability to escape harm. Rainbow Railroad has assisted more than 19,000 individuals in finding safety through emergency relocation, crisis response, and other support.”

In simple terms, Rainbow Railroad helps LGBTQ+ folks escape their native countries where oppression is rampant. They provide a route to safety, while assisting clients in relocation to places like Canada. They used to relocate to the United States, but because the outlook is uncertain and bleak for many queer and trans people in this country, they are concentrating those efforts now to our neighbor to the north.

I was practically moved to tears when Rainbow Railroad client Cabrel spoke to a group of us in Izzy’s refurbished and gorgeous upstairs private dining room (complete with a fireplace!). He spoke of being imprisoned in his native Cameroon solely because he is gay, and then being abandoned by his family as well. Fleeing both to Algeria and Tunisia, he finally hooked up with the Rainbow Railroad and made his way safely to San Francisco, where his sponsor met him with a rainbow flag and a sign that said, “Welcome, Cabrel.” “I’ll never forget that day,” he says. “I was so happy to see them.” Cabrel is now rebuilding his life here and explains, “I have a job. I’m going back to school. I can walk in the street with my boyfriend without anyone insulting us or troubling us.”

I applaud the efforts of the Rainbow Railroad and all those who support them, and I encourage people to learn more about this worthwhile and important LGBTQ+ charity.

Back to Izzy’s. You walk in the front door, and you realize you might have been transported to a chic New York supper club. New owner Samantha Bechtel, who happens to be Duvall’s daughter, has mastered a ravishing renovation with the help of design firm Gachot Studios. It’s reminiscent of one of my favorites, the famed Monkey Bar in New York. A captivating mural by artist Matthew Benedict wraps around the first-floor dining room, with characters from William Saroyan’s The Time of Your Life front and center. Why Saroyan? He was a favorite author of the original Izzy Gomez, the long-lost Barbary Coast saloonkeeper for whom the chophouse is named.

And how’s the food? Surprisingly good! Izzy’s has had its ups and downs throughout the years, but it’s back on track. Elegant glassware, mini table lamps, and white tablecloths set the stage for a special evening. The meal begins with crunchy Tartine levain bread and butter. A rarity in San Francisco, it’s served tableside at no additional cost.

Toasting the spirit of Izzy Gomez, my husband and I started with retro cocktails. These included a Beefeater gin martini for me and a “Vitamin V,” (former San Francisco Chronicle columnist Herb Caen’s favorite drink, vodka with a slice of orange) for him. We continued with a Midwest, corn-fed filet mignon au poivre, cooked a proper “medium”: perfectly pink and juicy.

Izzy’s accompaniments on the menu might just be the stars. Their famous Izzy’s own potatoes, a kind of creamy potatoes au gratin, are back on the menu; and the creamed spinach is some of the best in town. My husband also opted for the broccoli di ciccio, a zesty presentation with lemon, fried onions, and pepper flakes. The key lime pie called to us, but our stretchy pants told us to forego dessert.

Besides steaks, the menu also includes salmon, halibut, a double smash burger, chicken piccata, and prime rib ravioli. The service is impeccable, with well-trained staff there when you need them, while providing time alone with your date when you want that. Admirably, much of the old memorabilia has been saved in the restaurant’s new iteration. Many of the old booths have been restored on the first level, but additional booths have been added in front as well. Thankfully, this makes for a pleasant dining experience, where one can hear one’s dining partner without shouting across the table.

All in all, Izzy’s makes for a special evening out. It’s time to return and enjoy an homage to an earlier era.

Bits and Bites

I had the chance to try plant-based Prime Roots Deli Meats made from a mycelium called koji—and they’re surprisingly delicious! The company’s young founders studied at UC Berkeley and decided to create “the first and only plant-based protein company focused on the deli counter.” The company claims that its products use 89% less water and 91% less land than conventional meats. Their offerings include products that simulate ham, turkey, and salami—but are 100% plant-based. They’re available at Rainbow Grocery, Berkeley Bowl, through Instacart, and online, as well as numerous other outlets.

Sonoma-based Anaba Wines has a fun summertime spritz idea, just in time for San Francisco’s warm weather. Called the “Sonoma Spritz,” it’s a refreshingly different take on an Aperol Spritz. The ingredients? 1 teaspoon fig syrup, 3/4 ounce fresh lemon juice, 3/4 ounce simple syrup, 3 ounces Anaba Rosé of Grenache, and soda water. Stir gently and garnish with a sprig of rosemary and a slice of lemon. It’s scrumptious!

And some sad news: Amaryll Schwertner and Lori Regis, partners in business as well as life, are two of my favorite industry people. Unfortunately, they have closed the doors to their beloved Boulettes Larder and Bar Bouli in the Ferry Building. I first met them when they took over the famed Stars restaurant and refashioned that destination with their own creative signature. When they opened downtown on the bay, I followed them there, even having a private 50th birthday party for a dear friend. The food was always clean and exquisite, yet surprising. Their warmth and welcoming spirit will be remembered forever. These amazing women gave San Francisco a sophisticated bistro and culinary approach for more than 20 years. I say, “Congratulations, we can’t wait to see your next chapter.”

Izzy’s Steak and Chops:
https://www.izzyssanfrancisco.com/

Rainbow Railroad:
https://www.rainbowrailroad.org/

Prime Roots:
https://www.primeroots.com/

Anaba Wines:
https://www.anabawines.com/

David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. You can email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com. Or visit him online at:
www.gaygourmetsf.com.

The Gay Gourmet
Published on August 14, 2025