David Landis, The Gay Gourmet–
At the beginning of a new year, one is bombarded by “best of” and “top ten” lists for every type of activity—including restaurants. But yours truly thought I’d rather give you a list of my personal favorites to try this year: some are new, some are old, but all of them are dependable, delicious, and delightful.
So here goes:
Abacá: Abacá serves innovative Filipino cuisine in a contemporary setting in the unlikely neighborhood of Fisherman’s Wharf. Don’t miss the ube piña colada.
Santeria: This is a Castro highlight for top-tier Mexican food. Favorites include: tacos birria, al pastor tacos, queso fundido, and enchiladas verdes. Santeria’s margarita bar serves a variety of tequila and mezcal-based drinks. They’re killer, and The Gay Gourmet recommends enjoying them served up with a salt rim.
Little Original Joe’s: This immensely popular Italian American eatery in the Marina is phenomenal—if you can get in! From the same family as Original Joe’s, Little Original Joe’s offers some of the best zucchini fritti, pastas, negronis, and more. This is the casual sister restaurant to its more formal North Beach counterpart.
Elena’s: Another newcomer from the Duggan family (of Original Joe’s fame), this also hard-to-reserve Mexican restaurant in West Portal showcases one of San Francisco’s most beautiful interior designs. You can enjoy great margaritas, crab tostadas, enchiladas, and homemade chips—all at an affordable price.
Ginger’s: This Financial District gay bar down an unlikely alley has made a comeback, and we’re glad they did! It is only open Wednesdays–Fridays, but it has a fun, young crowd with strong drinks, drag shows, and special events.
The Keys Jazz Bistro: This is one of my new favorite haunts in North Beach for cool jazz in an upscale, intimate setting with craft cocktails, good food, and a lively crowd.
The Dolls SF: Some of the transgender ladies of the now-shuttered AsiaSF have opened their own spot downstairs from a straight, country and western bar in the Marina. When you get past the mechanical bull, you descend to the lower level where The Dolls entertain on an expansive bar and also dance their way through the crowd. You can munch on quite decent bar food, and sip imaginative cocktails to boot.
Perbacco: You’ll taste some of San Francisco’s best Piemonte cuisine at this Financial District restaurant that has stood the test of time (as well as the pandemic). Favorites include: agnolotti del plin, tajarin with pork and porcini mushroom ragu, and the most tender vitello tonnato in town.
Cotogna: You’ll dine on some of the best Italian food at this Jackson Square mainstay, the sister restaurant to Michelin-starred Quince next door. If the weather is nice, choose to eat in Cotogna’s gorgeous parklet, resplendent with private booths, olive trees, and much-needed heaters for foggy San Francisco. The tortelli with butternut squash and sage, as well as the pappardelle with veal ragu and horseradish crème fraîche, are not-to-be-missed.
The Academy SF: This Castro LGBTQ social club might be members-only, but they welcome all with sliding scale fees that accommodate starving artists as well as those who are just starting out in uber expensive San Francisco. The events at this beautifully designed space include everything from wine tastings, to figure drawings, to yoga classes, to cabaret, and more.
Florio: This Pacific Heights bar/restaurant feels like your own neighborhood Cheers, but with great food. Bartender John (Sundays–Tuesdays) seems to know everyone by name; he’ll likely have your drink ready as you walk through the door. The pappardelle bianco is a star, but don’t forego the wagyu hamburger—one of the best in the city.
La Mar: It’s been around for years and has outposts in other cities, but La Mar still boasts some of the best Peruvian cuisine—and bay views—in town. Since it’s Peruvian, you must try their Pisco Sour, and this one doesn’t disappoint. Beyond that, their version of a Dungeness crab paella is one for the books.
Le Parc Bistrobar: Chef Bruno Chemel has closed his Michelin-starred Baume in the South Bay. Lucky for us, he has chosen to open a more casual French bistro in the city at the Galleria Park Hotel downtown. The artichoke soup is out of this world and I loved the Petrale sole as well as the extremely tender oxtail served on a bed of yummy mashed potatoes.
Early To Rise: This is one of San Francisco’s best brunch spots, located near the Divisadero corridor in Nopa. You’ll have to wait in line, since they don’t accept reservations. But it’s worth it for the samosa potato pancake, bananas foster pancakes, shrimp and grits (with bacon, no less)—and some of the best bagels around.
North Beach Restaurant: Just recently reopened, this venue still has much of its beautiful art collection. The menu items, including Petrale sole and a variety of house-made pastas, don’t break the bank. Plus, you’ll likely see former Mayor Willie Brown dining at the four-top in the window.
Z&Y Peking Duck: This is a newish eponymous Chinatown offering from the folks at Z&Y Restaurant around the corner. It has a modern vibe and, true to its name, is known for its succulent Peking Duck. Insider’s tip: don’t just show up—you have to order that delicious duck in advance, and reservations are highly recommended.
Hilda and Jesse: This LGBT-owned eatery has received numerous accolades (including a Michelin star), and there’s a reason why: the brunches are unlike any other you’ve ever had (duck leg karaage with fermented pepper sauce, anyone?). The design is modern, colorful, and inviting, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the always-happening North Beach neighborhood. I haven’t yet been for dinner, but I understand their tasting menus are worth the splurge.
Bits and Bites
The annual Mostly British Film Festival is coming back to the Vogue Theatre February 6–13, 2025. My pal Ruthe Stein, who has been instrumental with that festival, wanted to give me a foodie reminder. Turns out that Ismail Merchant—in addition to being half of the great gay filmmaking team Merchant & Ivory—was also a gourmet cook. He was famous for cooking fabulous meals for the cast and crew of films that he and James Ivory produced and directed. He also has numerous cookbooks (all of them available on Amazon), including Filming and Feasting in France (with 40 recipes). The Merchant-Ivory tribute screens February 10 as part of the festival.
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on January 16, 2025
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