By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet–
Amidst warehouses, new residential and office buildings, and showrooms south of Market in San Francisco’s design district sits an unlikely culinary find: namely, Rosemary & Pine, at the site of the old Skool restaurant.
Visiting is a bit of an enchanting urban adventure: on a less-populated corner, you enter through a gate to a lush and verdant garden that dispels the concrete jungle behind. The outdoor courtyard and its black and white bistro chairs beckon, as if dining in a quiet magical garden. But the chic, modern interior tempts, as it’s all abuzz with fun and laughter. Both options are equally worthy.
The name itself? A bit of an insider’s joke. Colleagues of then-newbie Chef Dustin Falcon, who used to work at Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc restaurant in Yountville, asked him to get some rosemary from the garden. He came back with a bunch of pine branches amidst a smattering of rosemary—a mistake that he humorously embraced, and now proudly wears as the name of this California cuisine restaurant.
Chef Falcon’s credits are noteworthy: he’s helped Niku Steakhouse earn a Michelin star, and still remains at the helm there. Rosemary & Pine is a departure for the Omakase Group that owns both restaurants, as well as Dumpling Time, Okane, and the signature Omakase restaurant. It’s the group’s first foray beyond Asian cuisine, one that embraces the regional roots of the Golden State.
What an embrace it is! This is truly one of the best new restaurants to open in San Francisco in a long time. I like to call it “appetizing alchemy,” because of the creative way Chef Falcon reinvents California cuisine. It’ not just invigorating—it’s mouthwatering and delicious.
Beverage director Michael Hart (of Lusk fame) gets the alchemy going with mixology that tends towards gin and tequila. On one visit with just my husband, we sampled the “Pear Necessity,” a sweet/sour concoction consisting of vodka, lemongrass, sherry, pear, ginger, lemon, and elderflower tonic. The hubby declared it “divine.”
On our second visit, we came with a gay gaggle. Besides ordering more traditional martinis and negronis, we tried the “Walk The Pine.” That drink creatively combines gin, mezcal, pine eau de vie, brucato chaparral, vermouth, and strega (an Italian herbal liquor). Our fussy group declared it a winner as well. California varietals dominate the wine list with unusual choices: on one visit, we selected a white Vermentino from Dunnigan Hills that was crisp, light, and a perfect complement to our meal. For our second visit, the Scribe Rosé delivered a Provence-style wine, both clean and dry.
Moving on to the meals, the menu changes constantly. That makes for a welcome and different experience each time. When we visited, these were some of the standouts: the persimmon, chicory salad fused sweet, sour, salty, and tangy flavors in an umami start to the meal, dotted with pickled red onion, and candied hazelnuts. The Kusshi oysters had an unusual but bright blood orange mignonette with serrano chili that packed a punch (although one member of our group commented they could have been colder). The crispy burrata with pistachio pesto and basil oil could have been straight from Puglia, it was that good. Sweet and crunchy notes amplified a seasonal kabocha squash soup (enhanced with pickled apple and candied walnut).
The pastas—all made in house—are a highlight of the menu. On the first visit, we chose the delicata squash agnolotti with pepitas, pomegranate, and pear—an imaginative and unexpected combination, which we declared “fall/winter pillows of deliciousness.” On our follow-up visit, our party sampled the delectable squid ink tonnarelli. The dish imaginatively blends Maine lobster, Calabrian chili, ginger, garlic, tomatoes, and gremolata. That even pleased our two guests who live part-time in Orvieto!
Great entrée choices include: a moist, perfectly-cooked pork chop with mustard sauce; and the fresh-from-the-sea black cod with artichoke, Tokyo turnip, small binjte potatoes (originally bred in the Netherlands), and Meyer lemon (yum). Don’t forget the sides; they’re as distinctive as the entrées. On the first visit, we tried the binjte potatoes with cheese; and on the second, the distinctive Iacopi Farms Brussels sprouts with persimmon jam (almost like balsamic).
Finally, desserts are a must. The sunchoke crème brûlée might be my new favorite dessert of the year: the creaminess of the custard combines well with the savory quality of sunchoke. But the brioche bread pudding with olallieberries, white chocolate, blackberries, and blueberries shined prominently as well.
By the way, I’d like to give a special shout-out to server Angelina, who served our enthusiastic but discerning group with aplomb. The service is professional, timely, and friendly.
All in all, add Rosemary & Pine to your “go-to” dining list. It’s appetizing alchemy at its best.
Bits and Bites
Usually, I’m pretty supportive of restaurant policies. Yet, there’s one that recently has gotten, in my humble opinion, out of hand: that of cancellation policies. I understand that restaurant patrons flake on their reservations, so restaurants have instituted a penalty fee—generally $25 per person—for cancellations within 24 hours. Mostly, I agree with that policy. However, during the torrential rainstorms a few weeks ago, I had reserved at Madera at the Rosewood in Menlo Park for a friend’s birthday. The weather prediction was for a severe storm that Saturday. I called on Thursday to say, would they make an exception, given the unusual weather, and let me decide to go Saturday during the day, depending on the weather? They initially said no, but then the manager called back (because I suspect they found out I write for this newspaper) and said they would eliminate the charge “this time.” I cancelled the reservation. I would hope that a luxury property—or any restaurant, in fact—would use good judgment in exceptional situations with these policies in the future.
The Wine Spectator Best Wine Values list is out, with the #1 entry hailing from Napa Valley: Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019.
Anomaly SF has just opened on the ground floor of an Edwardian building in San Francisco’s Lower Pacific Heights neighborhood. According to the establishment, it will offer “a whimsical tasting menu built upon seasonal ingredients, precise technique, and an element of surprise.” Chef-owner Mike Lanham hailed previously from Spruce, Commis, and Bird Dog. The 11-course prix-fixe menu will change seasonally and is priced at $121/person.
Cavaña, San Francisco’s newest rooftop cocktail bar, recently opened atop Mission Bay’s newest hotel, LUMA Hotel San Francisco. The new destination describes itself as “a mosaic of flavors from Central and South America and the Caribbean, offering elevated, shareable plates. They are served alongside a one-of-a-kind beverage program consisting of modern and innovative cocktails. Those concoctions feature an expansive collection of sugarcane and agave distillates, and unique Latin ingredients.”
A fond adieu to personal favorite Harvey’s, which closed recently in the Castro. I’ve had many a fun time there, either watching drag shows or sipping cocktails outside on the corner of 18th and Castro with our dogs in tow. You will be missed. Maybe someone will bring back the original Elephant Walk?
There were eighteen local semi-finalists nominated for 2023 James Beard Foundation Awards this year. Congratulations go to: Cassava, Che Fico, Mourad, Café Ohlone, Birch & Rye, Yasukochi’s Sweet Stop, Viridian, House of Prime Rib, Lazy Bear, Trick Dog, Californios, Single Thread, Ettan, Jo’s Modern Thai, Commis, Kin Khao, Le Fantastique, and Sushi Yoshizumi.
America’s LGBTQ+-owned restaurants and bars serving food can take advantage of a vital lifeline from the National LGBT Chamber of Commerce (NGLCC) and Grubhub, the food-ordering and delivery marketplace. The NGLCC Community Impact Grant Program is a program made possible by a grant from the Grubhub Community Fund. The grants will range from $10,000 to $25,000, and funds can be used for such purposes as updating security and security protocols, updating/purchasing new equipment, community involvement, marketing and PR services, updating digital/e-commerce presence, purchasing products, staff training programs, employee pay and/or staff incentivized wages, COVID-19 recovery, and maintenance/updating of current infrastructure. Grant application deadlines for Western regional businesses are from March 15–April 5.
It’s hard to believe, but Chef/Owner Mark Dommen’s veteran eatery One Market turns 30 years old on February 16. To celebrate, the restaurant brought back a group of six prominent chefs from the restaurant’s past: Bradley Ogden, Stephen Simmons, Patti Dellamonica-Bauler, George Morrone, Joseph Humphry, and Adrian Hoffman. Each chef contributed a favorite dish inspired by their time at One Market. The six dishes will replace items on One Market’s a la carte menu through the end of February.
Through March, Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey is partnering with bars, restaurants & stores across the country to raise up to $1 million for Historically Black Colleges and Universities (HBCUs). The brand has pledged $1 for every Old Fashioned cocktail sold nationally through Black History Month (February) and Women’s History Month (March). Participating local bars and restaurants include: 1 Hotel San Francisco, AU Lounge, Sequoia Diner, Alkali Rye, Social 303 Smokehouse, Local Kitchen, and The Pearl.
In partnership with Fung Collaboratives, the Redwood City Improvement Association has debuted its newest public art installation at the Art Kiosk titled Ordinary People by LGBTQIA+ artist Peter Moen. The installation features more than fifty portrait paintings of LGBTQIA+ community members. This installation is on display day and night on the exterior walls of Art Kiosk (2208 Broadway Street, Redwood City) through March 12. While there, you can dine at some tempting places, like Japanese restaurant Sakura.
Rosemary & Pine: https://tinyurl.com/5euymbeh
Beaulieu Vineyard: https://tinyurl.com/enh98j43
Anomaly SF: https://tinyurl.com/mpkcvt8t
Cavana: https://tinyurl.com/2vknjccz
James Beard Foundation: https://tinyurl.com/wrmn3mwm
NGLCC Community Impact Program: https://tinyurl.com/mr4xn4wc
One Market: https://tinyurl.com/bvjheu4j
Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey: https://tinyurl.com/2p92zsch
Peter Moen exhibit in Redwood City: https://tinyurl.com/3pw8z8yr
Sakura: https://tinyurl.com/ynv3yxvx
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on February 9, 2023
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