By David Landis–
If I’ve heard from San Franciscans once, I’ve heard it a thousand times: avoid Fisherman’s Wharf; it’s a tourist trap, especially for the food.
Well, yours truly is here to tell you there’s an old-school Wharf restaurant that lays that assumption to rest: Scoma’s San Francisco.
The Scoma’s story is a true San Francisco tale. In 1965, brothers Al and Joe Scoma bought a six-stool coffee shop on Pier 47 at Fisherman’s Wharf in an effort to allow local fisherman to sell to their family instead of to the big wholesalers. As the family says, “We started as a coffee shop for fishermen and soon became a restaurant that served their daily catch.” Now, Scoma’s is one of the country’s highest-grossing independent restaurants.
From start to finish, this dining adventure is first-class. Start with the fact that they have free (yes, free) valet parking in San Francisco, right on their own pier. The longtime valet, Manny, couldn’t be friendlier and parks your car just steps from the restaurant (don’t forget to tip him!).
Once you enter this tried-and-true establishment, it oozes classy retro: a mid-century bar overlooking San Francisco Bay, leather booths, and waiters in proper attire who know the score. You can almost sense that this was a place that Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Sammy Davis, Jr., might have frequented. Add to that the culinary talents of chef Gordon Drysdale, who serves as Culinary Director, overseeing the kitchen. Those of us who have been around may remember him for the acclaimed, hip, and happening Gordon’s House of Fine Eats in SOMA back in the 90s. In addition, Scoma’s SF owns its own dock and fish receiving station. That assures diners they’ll be eating the freshest fish possible—and in season, our luscious local Dungeness crab as well.
My loyal readers know we often dine with our rescue dogs, Gaston and Alphonse. So, instead of indoors, we’ve opted of late to dine outdoors. Scoma’s offers two brilliant options: one by the Bay, with a panoramic vista overlooking the harbor, the water, and the Golden Gate Bridge. But equally compelling and attractive is the canal-side seating with proper heat lamps and views of the crab boats and the city skyline.
Our waiter, Chris, couldn’t be more knowledgeable, experienced, attentive—and fun. He’s straight out of central casting but is well versed on the menu, preparations, and what’s fresh. (I always trust a waiter who tells you the truth.) The menu, dubbed appropriately “pier to plate,” of course focuses on delicacies from the sea.
So, what’s good at Scoma’s?
On several recent lunch visits, we started with a white Pinot Bianco from Alsace (Domaine Zind Humbrecht) and another white wine, Scarpone, a Pecorino from Italy. Both are dry and mineral-driven, which accompanies Scoma’s seafood exquisitely. Besides the requisite California wines, Scoma’s also features wines from around the world (especially Italy). But Scoma’s is also great for classic cocktails. Our pal Tommy swears by their extra dry Tito’s vodka martini up with a twist. Myself, I love Scoma’s house-made Negroni, made with SipSmith Gin, strawberry-infused Campari, and red vermouth. Lucky for diners, Scoma’s even sells their Negroni mix to go.
One thing I like about established restaurants like Scoma’s is that before you even ask, they bring freshly-baked Boudin sourdough rolls and butter—and they don’t charge for it! You can’t get more San Francisco than Boudin; it’s a great way to start the meal.
One of the must-haves at Scoma’s is their house-made New England style clam chowder—brimming with clams, potatoes, and flavor. Instead of a tiny cup, the small version comes in a miniature bowl. For another starter, we sampled the fried calamari. Scoma’s gets their calamari from the East Coast and it’s dusted with rice flour and cornmeal, then fried in rice oil to make sure it’s crispy, non-greasy, and light. It’s served with both a traditional house-made tartar sauce and cocktail sauce as well. We’ve also had the “Oysters alla Scoma’s,” which is their delicious take on Oysters Rockefeller—baked with spinach, brandy-garlic oil, and Asiago cheese. Scoma’s also often offers an asparagus soup (in season) and it’s always rich and tasty, served with a spot of cream.
For entrées, I’d always recommend asking the waiter what’s fresh that day. When we went, it was still crab season, although Scoma’s was getting their crab from up north in Oregon. We ordered the Dungeness crab cocktail with horseradish and cocktail sauce—and it’s enough to either split or have as an entrée. The crab was plump and fresh and tastes as if the fisherman just caught it that day. For our entrée, we split the Dungeness crab cakes with celery and remoulade (when it comes to good crab, too much is a good thing). Other must-haves include Scoma’s “Lazy Man’s Cioppino,” with Dungeness crabmeat, scallops, shrimp, clams, mussels, calamari, and whatever fish is fresh—all served in “Mama” Scoma’s” tomato broth. I’d also recommend Scoma’s Petrale Dore, a lightly egg-battered local sole with garlic lemon butter and the house-made tartar sauce. Because Scoma’s is an Italian family, their pastas are also tempting. For dessert, I’m always a sucker for the homemade tiramisu, but Scoma’s also features an irresistible seven-layer cake and cannoli alla Siciliana.
Scoma’s has another outpost on the Sausalito waterfront that I haven’t yet tried. But for a true San Francisco seafood treat, Scoma’s at the Wharf can’t be beat.
Bits and Bites
Izo Spirits is a new brand of mezcal and I asked one of my spirits taste testers, Ann, for her opinion: “The rich smoky flavor and the smooth taste makes this a drink to sip and savor. I especially enjoyed it after a meal where its distinct flavors shone without the distraction of other foods. I like that it is made using the original standards of production, no shortcuts, no chemicals. This is truly a drink that I will keep on my ‘go to’ list.”
A Gay Gourmet favorite, Villon at San Francisco’s Proper Hotel, with chef Jason Fox at the helm, re-opens April 7.
Every Wednesday, Canela in the Castro is offering special bottles at 30% off the list price, pouring rare bottles by the glass and featuring staff favorites. Plus, you can get a discount and even take it home.
With Mother’s Day around the corner, you can send Mom a classic 1950s crumb cake delivered to your door from Clarkson Avenue Crumb Cake Company.
Scoma’s San Francisco: https://scomas.com/
Clarkson Avenue Crumb Cake Company: https://clarksonavecrumb.com/cakes/
Izo Spirits: https://www.izospirits.com/
Villon: https://tinyurl.com/ms5aswvw
Canela: https://canelasf.com/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
Published on April 21, 2022
Recent Comments