By David Landis–
San Francisco has a long and rich history, dating back centuries. From the Miwok Native Americans, through the Gold Rush, to the Beatniks, the Hippie movement, the Queer invasion, and the tech revolution, this urban enclave is constantly innovating. It’s such a profuse timeline that sometimes, even though I’ve lived here since 1980, I discover something radically new about this city or a neighborhood I thought I knew.
That’s the “ah, ha” moment I had recently. Two tourist friends from Germany and I walked the Mission with knowledgeable tour guide Robert Magee from the organization Stretchy Pants Food Tours (SPFT). What did we find? A diverse array of food, art, and—surprisingly for me—a consistent history as a center of social justice.
First, a bit about this tour group. Stretchy Pants Food Tours, according to its website, “was founded by food enthusiast Kara Ricciardi in San Francisco, and emerged from her love of cooking, exploring new foods, and traveling. Kara started as a prep cook and waitress, later specializing in bakery science and developing cookies for various food service providers. Inspired by her travels to over 65 countries, Kara combined her passions for food and travel to create Stretchy Pants. Ruby Bielik, Kara’s college friend, joined the venture because she was drawn to the importance of food in culture. Stretchy Pants Food Tours promotes exploring local cuisines and connecting with communities, reflecting a belief in the significance of food to understand a city’s essence.” They offer public tours (North Beach, Fisherman’s Wharf, and Chinatown), and private tours (North Beach, Castro/Mission, Ferry Building, Alamo Square/Painted Ladies, and Pier 39) throughout town.
I chose to experience the Mission private tour because it combined food, art, and history. I felt like I had a grasp on the history of the Mission and its psychic heart. Boy, was I wrong. We met Robert at Taqueria Cancún for one of the city’s tastiest tacos (moist chicken, no less!) amidst a comforting array of picnic tables in a bright, cheery yellow dining room. At the start of the tour, Robert educated us about the neighborhood’s longstanding history (in his own words) as “a cultural faultline” and a “hotbed of rebellion against the establishment.”
“Even before the Mission became a living tableau for muralists and street artists,” Robert explained, “it stood as a bastion of anti-establishment thought, championing messages of social justice, even revolution. Irish nationalists found fertile ground in the neighborhood taverns, and 16th Street saw the establishment of the American Indian Center in the late 1950s. In the 1970s, young Nicaraguans trained for guerrilla warfare on the slopes of Bernal, and the Gay Latino Alliance (GALA) arose in reaction to what was perceived as the white establishment of the Castro. Plus, it was here in 1971 that a group of visionary women founded the San Francisco Women’s Centers, incubating impactful projects for women throughout the Bay Area.”
So, we set off from active Mission Street, turning right to quieter 19th Street. Across the street from famed Michelin-star eatery Lazy Bear, we saw one of the highlights of the tour: a huge black and white mural created by muralist and tattoo artist Mel Waters. It depicts Grammy-award winning musician Carlos Santana, who moved to San Francisco in the 1960s. Just down the street on the same side is an impressive Vamos Gigantes San Francisco Giants mural, created under the direction of artist Susan Kelk Cervantes and commissioned by Precita Eyes. According to Yelp reviewer Al, “The mural’s concept is history, community, and the future. It features the stadiums where the Giants played: the polo grounds, Seals Stadium, earthquake-damaged Candlestick Park, and Pac Bell Park, now known as Oracle Park. Iconic Giants players featured include Juan Marichal, Orlando Cepeda, Willie McCovey, Willie Mays, Barry Bonds, Will Clark, and The Alou Brothers.”
Sauntering further down the street is the Mission Pool and Playground (the site of the city’s only outdoor swimming pool). A tranquil mural by artist Juana Alicia adorns the outside of the building depicting Adam and Eve, but in an unexpected setting with flora and fauna native to Northern California.
Turning right on Lapidge Street, we approach the impressive Women’s Building from the side and are witness to the colorful, five-story MaestraPeace (Woman of Peace) mural,one of San Francisco’s largest and best-known murals. This mural, which wraps around the building onto 18th Street, was painted in 1994 by a “Who’s Who” of Bay Area muralists: Juana Alicia, Miranda Bergman, Edythe Boone, Susan Kelk Cervantes, Meera Desai, Yvonne Littleton, and Irene Perez. The Women’s Building says, “MaestraPeace serves as a visual testament to the courageous contributions of women through time and around the world,” including Georgia O’Keefe and Audre Lorde.
Wandering quickly by the new and old Mission Dolores (the oldest building in San Francisco), we were feeling a bit peckish. So, it was time for our second food stop at the much-touted Joyride Pizza on Valencia Street, home to fashionable Detroit-style pizza. While it isn’t necessarily my favorite pizza style, the focaccia-like crust and vegetarian toppings in the cleverly-titled “Eat Your Vegetables” pizza made for a tasty snack. From there, we stopped in at Manny’s, the community center dedicated to social justice and participation in civic life. The café is a welcoming spot to get a perk-me-up espresso, along with sandwiches, salads, and more. Don’t forget to check out its always-changing schedule featuring politicians, artists, and issues-oriented experts.
Next on the trail is the awe-inspiring Clarion Alley, where murals dominate an impressive one-block long alley and you truly “feel” the Mission. The mission (no pun intended) of the Clarion Alley Mural Project (CAMP), in its own words, “is to support and produce socially engaged and aesthetically innovative public art. It uses public art as a means for supporting social, economic, racial, and environmental justice storytelling.” Over 900 murals have been created since 1992, turning this into a must-see Mission destination. The titles of the murals say it all: Hire Trans Folks by Marcel Pardo Ariza, Not in Our Name by Genny Lim and Juana Alicia, and Together, We Can Weather Any Storm by the SF Poster Syndicate, among many others.
We skipped the next food stop, the charming La Oaxaquena (on Mission Street), where pupusas have a starring presence on the menu. But we left room for the final stop, Dandelion Chocolate on Valencia Street. Here, we sampled its famous, thick, hot chocolate, made from Dandelion’s single-origin dark chocolate, with only two ingredients: cocoa beans and organic sugar. Dandelion’s homemade cookies and brownies were a perfect complement to hit the spot!
I’m told from Stretchy Pants that each tour is individualized, so your tour might have a surprise or two, and feature a different array of destinations.
After touring the Mission with Robert, I’ll admit I could use a new pair of stretchy pants! But I can’t wait to try SPFT’s other San Francisco-based food tours.
Stretchy Pants Food Tours:
https://www.stretchy-pants.com/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. You can email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on July 31, 2025
Recent Comments