By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet–
In the words of Sir Paul McCartney, “It’s good to be back!”
For those of you who may not have heard, I’ve been recovering from total shoulder replacement surgery, so the Gay Gourmet was on a bit of a hiatus. It all went well, and for those considering the procedure, I say, “Go for it!” Thanks to Dr. Brian Feeley and my stellar healthcare team at UCSF for helping me get back to normal. I’ll be playing doubles with Andre Agassi any day now! Thanks also to my talented pals and colleagues Andrew Freeman and Beth Schnitzer for filling in for me so beautifully, with restaurant columns that were delicious, delightful, and de-lovely.
On to more tantalizing issues, like where to dine in the Castro. Of course, there are many yummy options (dozens of which I’ve written about, like Canela, Poesia, Fable, Catch French Bistro, Anchor Oyster Bar, and more). But it wasn’t until I read a recent missive from the ubiquitous Manny Yekutiel of Manny’s in the Mission that I knew about Wooden Spoon. He had dined there recently with Board of Supervisors President Rafael Mandelman and declared it his favorite place for breakfast in the Castro. Yet, I had never heard of it. Turns out, it’s been around for years; who knew? I guess sometimes I miss the boat.
Well, I’m telling everyone to climb aboard this winning watercraft. My father often told me not to take any wooden nickels; but if you’re offered an opportunity to visit Wooden Spoon, take it with gusto. Wooden Spoon is among the best bistros in the Castro—and the city, for that matter.
Longtime San Francisco residents might remember the now-gone It’s Tops diner at the corner of Octavia and Market. It was one of my favorites: an historic, old-timey coffee shop with great waffles and hot cakes, vinyl booths, a jukebox, wood paneling, and more. I’d say that Wooden Spoon is a modern interpretation of that kind of traditional diner: it’s urbane and urban, but still comfy, delish, approachable, and affordable.
That feeling envelops you the minute you walk inside; Wooden Spoon is located next to the Swedish American Hall on Market Street. A marble countertop with dozens of barstools wraps around a curated (full!) bar, where you can dine and/or enjoy a libation. Wines by the can, which are actually decent, along with a selection of tequilas, gins, vodkas, and more, are available at this full-service diner.
Wooden spoons adorn the walls as you approach the main dining room, reminding you that this from-the-scratch eatery doesn’t just serve pre-mixed concoctions. The floor-to-ceiling windows bring shafts of light in from the outside, making the restaurant cheery and welcoming. Service is casual but helpful. Once you’re seated, you’ll see a selection of breakfast items, bowls, salads, sandwiches, and more to tempt.
So, what to order? I’ve been there several times now for lunch. I loved the patty melt, with plenty of American cheese (you can take the boy out of the Midwest, but you can’t take the Midwest out of the boy), grilled onions, and a “special sauce” that make this as good as it gets. Accompaniments include healthy pickled carrots and turnips, instead of the usual fries. I also sampled the Chinese chicken salad, which is huge and big enough for two. It’s dressed with a complex, tasty cashew/soy vinaigrette, plenty of grilled-to-order chicken, crispy wontons, napa cabbage, fragrant cara-cara oranges, and cilantro. This salad is the perfect mix of crunchy and savory, as well as sweet and sour. It’s healthy to boot.
My loyal hubby ordered the curried chicken salad sandwich (with pear chutney and pickled onions); he declared it “delectable.” Next time, I want to try the Swedish Society Pancakes with a culturally-appropriate topping of lingonberry jam, powdered sugar, and lemon curd. A friend of mine ordered the grilled haloumi salad with arugula, butternut squash, pomegranate, garbanzo beans, and a Dijon-herb dressing: it looked delicious to me. But if you have the yen, Wooden Spoon also serves up a breakfast panini with rosemary ham, scrambled egg, mascarpone, and fontina cheese. Or perhaps a morning bowl with farro, butternut squash, vadouvan roasted carrots, mushrooms, cashew crema, and pistachio-basil pesto might be to your liking?
Wooden Spoon is open daily from 8 am to 3 pm and doesn’t take reservations (except for large groups). I’ve only been during the week, when it’s easy enough to walk in. But I’ve heard that, on the weekends, the throngs line up, so you may wait awhile. Either way, it’s the culinary and delectable ticket for breakfast, lunch, and brunch at a reasonable price in the Castro. https://www.woodenspoonsf.com/
Bits and Bites
It’s great to dine well on a budget. I haven’t been there yet, but the new Saluhall on Market Street is a “one-stop shop for your dining needs—with two full bars and a variety of merchants, there’s something for everyone.” For a deal, how about the Smish Smash “Lue” box, which includes a burger of your choice, fries, and a dipping sauce for under $20? Cheezy’s Artisan Pizza offers $8 slices and whole pies starting at $23. And, there are generous portions for an affordable price at Curry Up Now, Casa Borinqueña, and Momo Noodle. https://www.saluhallmarket.com/
Another newcomer I need to try is Fifty Vara, “a welcoming new brewpub in the Sunset, where hearty portions and wallet-friendly prices reign supreme.” Local industry veteran and owner Brian Reccow built this bright, bustling spot around approachable, easy-drinking beers like their $6 house lager and $7 Pilsner, served alongside comforting plates like orecchiette with pork sugo and crispy calamari. The vibe is relaxed and family-friendly (yes, there’s a kids’ menu and crayons!), with a full cocktail list and a Sunday happy hour program to keep the good times rolling.
https://www.fiftyvarasf.com/
There are so many new dining options at The Ferry Building, including the soon-to-open and much-anticipated Arquet in the former Slanted Door space, from Sorrel’s Alex Hong and Joel Wilkerson. Until then, if you’re craving burgers, noodles, pizza, or sushi and can’t decide where to eat, the Ferry Building has you covered. You can browse many food vendors and order a full meal for under $25 regardless of cuisine. Gott’s Roadside is serving its classic cheeseburger for $10.99 while Lunette’s full bowl of noodles or Somlaw Curi is $21.00. Stop into Acme Bread for a pizza slice, or pick up a Jamaican Patty Meal for $16.50 at Peaches Patties, which includes a choice of one patty, a side of vegetables, and fried plantains. Delica’s $17, 9-item sushi bento box hits the spot with sushi, salad, and a deli item.
https://tinyurl.com/45ywemb4
Chef Matthew Accarrino’s casual Pacific Heights Italian bistro, Mattina, just celebrated its two-year anniversary, and I say “Bravissimo!” I returned for lunch after a long absence, and the pastas, wines, and salads are every bit as good as I remember. I returned soon after that for a celebration of new Italian wines that are just hitting the market, thanks to importer and distributor Skurnik Wines and Spirits. They were all terrific, with a couple of standouts: Benito Ferrara’s Greco Di Tufo Vigna Cicogna, a clean and bright, mineral-driven white wine from southern Italy; and Giacomo Mori’s smooth and easy-to-drink Chianti (red wine) from Palazzone near Siena. Delizioso! https://www.mattinasf.com/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on May 22, 2025
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