By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet–
As my loyal readers know, Hawaii, and Honolulu in particular, is like a second home to me. I’ve been traveling there almost annually since I was 4. The good news? Honolulu has never looked better. My hotel of choice is always the luxurious Halekulani Hotel on Waikiki Beach, where the food, service, and views are unbeatable. But the restaurants in Honolulu—often a culinary desert filled only with poorly-executed coconut shrimp and mediocre sushi—have now come into their own splendidly.
At the top of the list is one of my favorites, La Mer, at the Halekulani Hotel. It’s the “longest consecutively ranked AAA Five Diamond and Forbes 5-Star Restaurant in Hawaii.” Alexandre Trancher, Executive Chef at La Mer, has taken his French background and married it with the aloha spirit and cuisines of the islands. That fusion leads to some very innovative menu items, including a “duck foie gras with banana vanilla whisky marmalade and coconut.” That’s not only a mouthful to pronounce, but it’s also a delicious one to eat!
I was lucky enough to ask this creative chef a few questions about his inspiration and more. What follows is an edited version of that exchange.
David Landis: What is the inspiration behind your menu?
Alexandre Trancher: The inspiration behind my menu is nature—from the mountains to the ocean. All the fresh ingredients.
David Landis: What are some of your signature go-to flavors?
Alexandre Trancher: I don’t have a signature go to flavor. I use whatever is fresh and available and go from there.
David Landis: Favorite foods in Hawaii?
Alexandre Trancher: I enjoy local barbeque with friends and family.
David Landis: What is your favorite dish at Halekulani and why?
Alexandre Trancher: Although it is not a “dish,” I think that our mai tai signifies Halekulani.
David Landis: What are your favorite local ingredients for summer, fall, and winter, and how will you be incorporating them into your menu?
Alexandre Trancher: Hawaii is very different from France. There are various fresh ingredients, but we live on an island. So, it is sometimes difficult to receive consistent products all year round. I need to work with what is fresh and available.
David Landis: What is your first childhood food memory?
Alexandre Trancher: One of the first dishes I remember is a mousseline potato that looked like a volcano.
David Landis: When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
Alexandre Trancher: When I was 13 years old, I worked at my uncle’s hotel and became inspired to become a chef.
David Landis: Where are you from initially? What brought you to Hawaii?
Alexandre Trancher: I am originally from Paris, France, and have worked in different countries. I came to Hawaii for the opportunity to work at Halekulani and experience Hawaii.
David Landis: Who would you consider to be your mentor and why?
Alexandre Trancher: My mentor would be Master Chef Gerard Salle, whom I worked for as the Sous Chef at Hotel Vendome. His work strategy, cooking, and consistency have kept me inspired.
David Landis: What’s your favorite ingredient to work with and why?
Alexandre Trancher: I have learned throughout my culinary education that sauces are very important; they can be the highlight of a dish. All dishes need some type of sauce.
David Landis: What changes have you made since you arrived? What’s on the horizon?
Alexandre Trancher: Since I arrived at Halekulani in 2012, I have created a vegetarian prix fixe menu so that guests with special dietary needs are still able to enjoy dining at La Mer. In addition, through the years, I have created many variations of our Menu Dégustation and Menu du Soir. We have consistently upheld our AAA Five Diamond rating for La Mer and Forbes 5-Star rating. My next goal is to receive a Michelin Star rating for La Mer and Halekulani.
David Landis: What is your favorite dish on the current La Mer menu and why?
Alexandre Trancher: My favorite dish on the current menu is the Ballotine de Foie Gras de Canard, Purée de Bananes à la Vanille et Whisky Gelée et Poudre de Noix de Coco, Chips de Plantin (Ballotine of Duck Foie Gras, Banana-Vanilla Whisky Marmalade Coconut Gelée, Coconut Powder, Plantain Chips). When I first created this dish, I was pleasantly surprised at how the flavors of foie gras, bananas, and coconut meshed together. One would not typically think to combine these three flavors or textures, but they harmonize beautifully.
David Landis: What’s the strangest dish you’ve ever eaten? Where was it?
Alexandre Trancher: An interesting dish that I had was served at La Tour D’argent. It was a pressed duck in blood sauce. The French culinary style (reflects that) a dish is not just a dish; it is a visionary spectacle. Similar with a restaurant—it is not just a restaurant, it is a “family.”
David Landis: Can you name the one meal or dish you remember most and why?
Alexandre Trancher: Several months ago, I created a special dish: cappuccino mushroom with tiles of mushroom. I am looking to add this as an option for the La Mer guests.
David Landis: What’s your biggest pet peeve in the kitchen?
Alexandre Trancher: My biggest pet peeve would be culinary fads or trends. I don’t like to be caught up in a fad. We need to remain consistent in our style of cooking.
David Landis: Favorite part of living in Hawaii?
Alexandre Trancher: My favorite part of living in Hawaii is being at home with my family.
David Landis: What restaurant do you like to go to when you’re not working?
Alexandre Trancher: I do enjoy different types of cuisines. Senia is very memorable for their food and Nan San Jirojio because I like Japanese cuisine.
David Landis: Favorite pastime on your days off?
Alexandre Trancher: When I am not working, I just enjoy spending time with my family.
David Landis: Is there any other information about yourself that you want to share with our readers?
Alexandre Trancher: Hawaii is very special to me, as it is the place where I met my wife and where my daughter was born.
Besides La Mer, there are a host of great new places to dine in Honolulu. Morocco meets the Mediterranean at Leila, in an unassuming spot in a strip mall in Kaimuki. This is a new venture from San Francisco-based chef Mourad Lahlou and Hawaiian chef Chris Kajioka. The results are stunning. Insider’s tip: always order the “Seven Salads,” a knockout appetizer that is nearly a meal in itself. The restaurant’s $85/person tasting menu is a bargain and you can add wine pairings for another $40. If you’re lucky as we were, you’ll also see Chef Lahlou personally working his magic in the kitchen on many nights.
Another spot that I haven’t yet tried but is getting a lot of buzz is Mugen (which means “infinity” in Japanese), located in Waikiki. The website says that you can “experience global contemporary artistry with a sense of place … . Every dish tells a story, and every sip is a celebration.” The menu offers a six-course tasting meal or a prime aged tomahawk dinner for two. Hawaiian native Executive Chef Colin Sato oversees the kitchen, and dishes like “poke and caviar” with ginger and Hamachi entice.
Note to my readers: I’ll be taking a bit of a hiatus due to an old shoulder that needs to be replaced. Expect some great writing from some of my favorite colleagues in the meantime and look for my return later this spring. Thanks in advance for all your support.
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. Follow him on Instagram @GayGourmetSF or email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on February 27, 2025
Recent Comments