By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet—
“If you’re fond of sand dunes and salty air Quaint little villages here and there You’re sure to fall in love with old Cape Cod.”
—“Old Cape Cod,” song by Claire Rothrock, Milton Yakus, and Allan Jeffrey (made famous by The Divine Miss M, Bette Midler)
If you’re looking for a fun LGBTQ getaway, my husband Sean always says “head to the three P’s”: that would be Palm Springs, Puerto Vallarta, and Provincetown.
Palm Springs and Puerto Vallarta are a nonstop flight away, but Provincetown has a unique, historic East Coast charm. We were the lucky recipients to be guests of our close San Francisco pals, Tony and Kip, who happen to own a beautiful home smack dab on the beach, and walking distance to town. How could we say no?
Provincetown, like Puerto Vallarta (PV) and Palm Springs (PS), has a large, welcoming LGBTQ+ community of residents and visitors alike. In addition, like PV, there are inviting gay bars, tea dances, drag shows, restaurants, and shops. But unlike those other two West Coast destinations, Ptown (as the locals call it) is distinctly different: it was founded in 1620, has a small town feel, is bursting with blooming gardens, and is as American as lobster pie. I hadn’t been there in 40 years, so it was high time I returned!
So, how are the restaurants? To be honest, much of the food is, well, okay. There’s not a Michelin star in sight, but who cares? If you’re munching on a freshly-caught lobster roll, sipping a martini, and looking out at the ocean, what else matters?
The Gay Gourmet, always seeking the best for my loyal readers, has several places to recommend, as follows:
The Lobster Pot: At the top of the list is the down-home restaurant made famous by bad boy/foodie Anthony Bourdain and claiming a resurgence now that Bourdain’s movie, Tony, has been released. Although the reviews for the movie have been mixed, this seemingly touristy hot-spot is an A+. It is so good, in fact, that we had to go twice on our short Ptown visit. The famed hot lobster rolls with drawn butter are served on a traditional, toasted New England-style split-top bun. And yes, darling, they live up to their reputation: namely tender, fresh, and flavorful. The deck provides panoramic bay views if it’s not too hot. Ask for welcoming host Sean or “Tantalizing Todd,” the friendliest waiter. The Wellfleet Oysters Rockefeller (baked, with spinach, Pernod, and parmesan cheese) had an unexpected and delightful hollandaise topping that made the dish sing. Those may be the best Oysters Rockefeller I’ve ever had. The martinis are a healthy pour for only $15 and they don’t charge that infamous upcharge if you ask them to leave out the vermouth and garnish. Try the local Truro dry gin: it’s a contemporary American local gin with a touch of sweetness. Plus, their martinis are served with an additional sidecar over ice. Insider’s tip: Go early, as the Lobster Pot doesn’t take reservations.
The Red Inn: Our cute waiter Josh in his short-shorts was half the fun at this longstanding, upscale hotel/restaurant. It’s so “on the water” that you’re afraid the waves will break through the deck and the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Cape Cod Bay. Start with the medium-sized, local Wellfleet oysters. They taste bright, sharp, and deeply briny, backed by a plump, meaty texture, a crisp mineral tang, as well as a clean, slightly sweet seaweed finish. Move next to the surprisingly piquant crabmeat remoulade and the tasty lobster and artichoke fondue in a warm sourdough bowl. For the mains, I wouldn’t recommend the warm half lobster tail (a little too overcooked for my taste), but the scallops and local cod were big hits.
JD’s is an outdoor, casual pub/restaurant/cabaret space right on Commercial Street. And who knew? It’s owned by my fellow San Francisco Bay Times colleague Beth Schnitzer’s brother, Steve Schnitzer! It’s a great place for a drink, but the real surprise is the hidden sushi bar in the back, in the cabaret space where such luminaries as RuPaul’s Drag Race star Ginger Minj perform.
Freeman’s in Ptown might be the hottest restaurant ticket in town, but our party found it hit or miss. We loved the white sturgeon caviar, set up with all the trimmings and potato chips; and my cold English pea soup with crème fraiche was a standout, as were the foie gras toasted sandwiches (smooth and creamy). But our friends complained that the halibut was overcooked. The striped bass had an overly complicated prep, and tasted a bit fishy. My advice? Stick to the starters here.
What else to do in Ptown? There are always numerous drag shows. While in town, we caught drag superstar Varla Jean Merman’s latest show at the Crown and Anchor. She is a wonder. The show is titled Unlike a Virgin, (an homage to you-know-who). But I think it should have been called Mother, May I? because it’s truly a tribute to the many female influences in Merman’s life.
After all these years, the famous tea dance at The Boatslip (on their waterfront deck) is still going strong from 4–7 pm daily. It’s a great place to catch up with locals, down a shot, and relax before dinner and a show.
Shopping is terrific in this tiny town, too (leave it to the gays!). Anchor2Anchor, GreyScale, St33le, and Henry & Company are fun places to find some of the latest fashions to ready yourself either for the beach or a night on the town. You can easily walk the town or catch one of the many pedicabs available. Insider’s tip: The pedicab drivers tell you to “pay what you want,” but that means a minimum of $20/trip.
Don’t forget to save time for a lazy beach afternoon, or a tour of the iconic sand dunes. Exploring both the bay side and the Atlantic side of this community will make you fall in love with old Cape Cod.
There is one challenge to visiting Ptown. There are no direct flights from SFO. That means you have to stop in Boston, and either take a flight, a ferry, or an Uber to the far end of the Cape. We were going to take a flight, but there was a storm the day we left Boston for Ptown. The flights and the ferries got canceled, so we had to take an Uber. Oh, well: it’s just the trials and travails of travelling!
Speaking of Boston, we stayed there for a couple of days on both sides of our Ptown trip. Our home away from home? The luxurious, new Raffles Hotel (it’s the first and only Raffles in America), which is located in Back Bay and is walking distance to major shopping and attractions. Raffles defines first class from the moment you arrive. You have a personal butler who takes care of any whim. Our junior suite had a spacious living room, a wet bar, a separate bedroom, 1.5 bathrooms (with Guerlain amenities from Paris and La Bottega products from Italy), and a gorgeous downtown view. It’s modern, yet welcoming. Raffles has a couple of restaurants, but we opted to sit on the terrace of the Long Bar and Terrace since the weather was warm and the downtown view was expansive. Our well-trained waitperson Stephanie set the mood, with efficient, informative, and downright fun service. Our drinks arrived within minutes, so we knew we would have a satisfying experience. When we ordered the clam chowder (with chopped clams and cream, no cornstarch), the kitchen split the order without asking. We started with the shrimp cocktail. The prawns were plump and tender, and the accompanying homemade cocktail sauce had the perfect kick. The star of the show? The lobster meatballs: just like crab cakes, but with fresh lobster instead of the tried-and-true crab.
On our return trip, we visited Boston’s legendary LGBTQ+ enclave, Club Café. It’s three spaces in one: the Napolean Room, where we had a delicious dinner alongside the most entertaining cabaret show (more on that later); a large bar/lounge; and a disco. For dinner, don’t miss the Maryland crab cakes (lump Maryland blue crabmeat with tartar sauce), and the filet mignon (cooked medium rare, with a mushroom demiglace reduction). The Napoleon Room is a gorgeous throwback to the cabaret rooms popular in the 80s. The performer that night, Valerie Seade (a protégé of our pal and Broadway star Karen Mason), not only sang classics from the American songbook, but also invited talented performers in the audience to the stage. When we left, there was a line around the block with young ‘uns waiting to get into the club! A fun evening was had by all.
So, if you’re planning an East Coast or New England holiday, put Provincetown—and Boston—on your map!
Bits and Bites
Scott’s Seafood Grill & Bar is celebrating 50 years of exceptional dining with two exclusive anniversary offerings: a three-course prix fixe menu for $50 and signature $19.76 specials to honor its opening year of 1976. Both specials are available through the end of the year. Plus, there will be a 50% discount on all food from September 13 to September 30. Happy 50th!
The Lobster Pot: https://www.ptownlobsterpot.com/
The Red Inn: https://theredinn.com/
JD’s: https://tinyurl.com/tp9sj997
Freeman’s: https://freemansptown.com/
The Boatslip: https://theboatslip.com/
Crown and Anchor: https://onlyatthecrown.com/
Raffles Hotel, Boston: https://www.raffles.com/boston/
The Long Bar & Terrace: https://tinyurl.com/mr93x2m6
Club Café: https://www.clubcafe.com/
Scott’s Seafood Grill & Bar: https://scottsjls.com/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. You can email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at:
www.gaygourmetsf.com
All Photos Courtesy of David Landis
The Gay Gourmet
Published on September 10, 2026
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