By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet—
When is a chain not a chain restaurant?
In America, we live in a world where chain restaurants abound: McDonald’s, Denny’s, and even In and Out Burger, to name a few. Their formulas work. They are predictable, consistent, and dependable. But one has to ask: Is it always healthy or tasty?
So, when you come upon a great chain that’s local and high quality, you have to sit up and take notice. The Back of the House Restaurant Group (which owns The Tailor’s Son, A Mano, and Beretta), Bacchus Management Group (owner of the Village Pub and Spruce), and Hi Neighbor Hospitality Group (owner of The Vault and Trestle) come to mind. Each restaurant has its own identity; while there may be menu overlaps, the food is unique to each property.
Add to that Hillstone. It’s part of a bigger chain that includes Houston’s, Rutherford Grill, and Honor Bar. Their locations extend from Napa all the way to Palm Beach. For years, I have to admit that I avoided this group of restaurants, because I thought they were tourist traps.
No more.
Hillstone is, truth be told, one of my “go-to” places to dine in San Francisco. I’ve been there more than a dozen times because it’s always superb. It’s not Michelin star; it’s just great American food served by phenomenally trained waitstaff, and in a setting that is tres chic, both indoors and out.
Let’s start with the design. Located on the Embarcadero, Hillstone has a cozy, paved patio, perfect for bringing your pup while watching the parade of international streetcars, and tourists coming and going from Alcatraz. Inside, the restaurant has a New York-club feel, with leather booths and dim lighting, all overlooking an open-style kitchen.
Clearly, the waitstaff have comprehensive training (I’ve heard that they have to pass tests for more than a week!). The host/hostess greets you with a friendly smile, but not just a cliché welcome: they actually know who you are, and remember that you’ve dined with them before. They even greet your canine family member by name! The servers know all the details of the menu (what a concept?), and immediately bring you a drink right from the minute when you sit down. That almost never happens in San Francisco.
There are two distinguishing differentiators for insiders that I love about this place. First, you can request a hot towel to precede or accompany your meal. Second, when you’re halfway through your martini and it’s already getting warm, they bring you a second frozen glass—without asking! Does The Gay Gourmet have a favorite waitperson? That’s hard to determine, since they’re all first-rate, but Shane might take the proverbial cake.
I love their cocktails because they’re a heavy pour (even if they charge for that), and the extensive wine list tends toward California vintners. Why shouldn’t we support the local winemakers?
Yet, it’s the elevated diner menu that truly shines. I don’t think I’ve ever had a bad meal at Hillstone. Here are some of my favorites: the French dip prime rib sandwich (served on a crusty, home baked French roll)—probably the best in town—comes sliced paper thin, still medium rare and juicy, with au jus and horseradish cream on the side; the crab cakes are lumpy Maryland blue crabmeat, also among the best and available year-round; the ample-sized cheeseburger (ground in-house) is always cooked perfectly and comes with coleslaw, French fries, or tabbouleh salad; the grilled artichoke (a special, only available when it’s seasonal) is also a top contender for best in breed; the spinach and artichoke dip with warm tortilla chips hits the spot as a perfect starter; the chicken meatballs are properly-sized, juicy, and come with a pungent mustard sauce that complements the dish to a “t”; the traditional salad, my husband’s favorite, is served with chopped egg, bacon, homemade croutons, as well as your choice of mustard honey, buttermilk garlic, creamy vinaigrette, or Thousand Island (you can add your own BBQ pork or chicken); the pan-Asian noodle salad with mango, chicken, and ground peanuts is one of my favorites as well, combining sweet, sour, and crunch; and the fried chicken sandwich, served with Swiss cheese, is always a winner-winner chicken dinner. I’ve heard that the knife and fork barbecue ribs steal the show (and this from my Texas-born pal Tommy, who knows his ribs). Next time, I want to try “The Hawaiian,” a ribeye steak with pineapple-soy ginger marinade.
Most of the dishes come with a selection of accompanying sides. Among others, Hillstone offers real creamed corn (not sure I’ve seen that on a menu in years), a creamy pommes puree, and braised red cabbage with goat cheese—all delicious.
For dessert? There’s only one offering, but it’s not to be missed: the homemade key lime pie. It’s so unbelievably velvety, and is served with real whipped cream on a pecan graham cracker crust that will melt in your mouth.
Even though you’ll see an array of tourists dining there, you’ll also spot LGBTQ+ couples and families, often dining with their canine kin or kids. So, Hillstone is a place where we all can feel welcome.
Bits and Bites
One of my favorite chefs, Chef Mike Lanham, from the recently-closed Anomaly, has just re-opened Athanor in Presidio Heights at the same location. I just visited; it’s as terrific as the first incarnation, if not better. The restaurant’s redesign has new art. But some of the delectable dishes like the “egg” with potato, dashi, puffed rice, and yolk still remain on the menu. This modern dining eatery offers a fermentation-focused 10-course tasting menu ($175/person, a deal). Noteworthy offerings include prosciutto panna cotta with fermented white asparagus, sunchoke dumplings with champagne sauce, and salmon with caramelized potato juice, dill, and a caviar chip. Go now!
Capurro’s on the Wharf is celebrating more than 80 years in business. I also haven’t been there in years, but plan to revisit it soon. Founded by the Sicilian immigrant family that started the F. Alioto Lazio Fish Company, the restaurant opened shortly after the end of World War II. Completely renovated in 2005, it’s still family-owned and seafood-centric. Given the resurgence of the Wharf, this is a good excuse to return!
Kids Cooking for Life (KCL) will bring together supporters, community partners, families, and friends in Mill Valley on Monday, December 7, 2026, for an inspiring evening celebrating the impact of its hands-on cooking and nutrition education programs. The fourth annual event will highlight the difference KCL makes in the lives of children throughout the Bay Area. Guests will hear directly from students, instructors, schools, and community partners whose lives have been touched by the organization’s programs. The evening will feature KCL recipes prepared and served by young chefs, and an array of drawing prizes donated by local businesses.
Another great tried-and-true restaurant, The Big Four (at the reopened Huntington Hotel), celebrates 50 years this year. The vibe is old San Francisco, and the flaky chicken pot pie with a dollop of sherry is what to order. Plus, you’ll meet a variety of the city’s denizens while sipping your perfectly-chilled martini at the bar.
Bruma is the new cocktail lounge and modern San Francisco salon that just opened at the Ritz-Carlton San Francisco. Tucked inside the hotel’s landmark 1909 building atop Nob Hill, it’s named for the Spanish word for “mist.” The concept is built around the fog that settles over the neighborhood, the residential elegance of the block, and San Francisco’s own restless, Pacific-facing spirit.
Diwali is getting a delicious San Francisco celebration this year as Indian Restaurant Week returns November 1–14, bringing together six of the city’s leading Indian chefs for a special two-week dining experience. From North Indian slow cooking to progressive coastal cuisine, each chef has created a Diwali-inspired menu rooted in personal memories, family traditions, and regional cooking. Participating restaurants include ROOH, Tiya, Bombay Brasserie, Amber India, New Delhi Restaurant and Copra, with chefs Ashish Tiwari, Pujan Sarkar, Thomas George, Shibiraj Saha, Ranjan Dey, and Srijith Gopinathan each putting their own spin on the celebration.
Sprouts Chef Training, a nonprofit that provides at-risk youth with training and employment opportunities in the restaurant industry, is being feted November 1, with its 2026 Powerful Women in Food Gala. It’s an all-female lineup of Bay Area chefs, including Carrie Blease (Wolfsbane), Belinda Leong (B. Patisserie), Nancy Oakes (Boulevard & Prospect), Laura Ozyilmaz (Dalida & Maria Isabel), and Pim Techamuanvivit & Meghan Clark (Nari & Kin Khao), along with honorees chef Alice Waters and Debby Soo, CEO of OpenTable.
On Saturday, November 7, from 1 pm–4 pm, Whitehall Lane is celebrating National Merlot Daywith a special screening of the iconic film Sideways at St. Helena’s historic Cameo Theatre. There will be Whitehall Lane wine for tasting, as well as popcorn for noshing. Plus, Rex Pickett, author of the original book, will be there in person to introduce the film, host a post-screening Q&A, and sign copies of the book and the sequels.
Hillstone: https://tinyurl.com/ytcdmh66
Athanor: https://www.athanorsf.com/
Capurro’s: https://capurros.com/
Kids Cooking For Life: https://www.kidscookingforlife.org/
The Big Four: https://bit.ly/4k7n7Z3
Bruma: https://tinyurl.com/22dwjrxw
Indian Restaurant Week: https://indianrestaurantweeksf.com/
Sprouts Chef Training: https://www.sproutscheftraining.org/
Whitehall Lane: https://whitehalllane.com/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. You can email him at: davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at:
www.gaygourmetsf.com
The Gay Gourmet
Published on October 22, 2026
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