By David Landis, The Gay Gourmet—
Portland, Oregon—a short aerial jaunt from our City by the Bay—conjures up so many portrayals. The hit TV show Portlandia captured the town’s quirky and eccentric essence, but its beauty is reflected in its namesake, “City of Roses.” Add to that its recent emergence as a capital for gourmands. In fact, WalletHub in 2025 named Portland the second-best foodie city in the country (Miami came in first; San Francisco was third).
So, it was about time that the Gay Gourmet got his stomach (and self) up there to see (and eat) for himself. The impetus was an auction item that my husband and I won at a recent benefit for ODC, San Francisco’s modern dance company, theatre, and school. It turns out that School Director and Associate Choreographer Kimi Okada’s daughter, Maya Erickson, is the acclaimed Executive Pastry Chef at the James Beard award-winning modern Thai restaurant Langbaan. She curated an entire weekend start to finish and fit for a foodie. Plus, I got to see two dear longstanding friends who have moved from San Francisco up there: Larry and Teresa. How could my husband Sean and I resist?
“It’s been such a thrill to be a part of the Portland dining world,” explained Erickson, “and to see how it has truly blossomed in the decade that I’ve been here. There is such a wonderful diversity of cuisines, a culture of eating, and a true city-wide love for the joy sharing a meal brings. San Francisco was where I learned to love food and to cook, and Portland has been such a natural city to evolve into.”
One of the common threads throughout the dining experience in Portland that I noticed is that: a) the restaurants are much more casual than San Francisco (so, dining out doesn’t feel pretentious, even if it’s fine dining); and b) the restaurants are smaller and more intimate, which makes for a more service-oriented evening. All of these are a bonus! Another interesting note about the restaurant scene there: Bars in the city with a full on-premises liquor license must serve food. According to Oregon Liquor and Cannabis Commission (OLCC) regulations, these establishments “are required to offer at least five different, substantial food items (meals) during required hours.” That contributes to an atmosphere that is more creative gastronomically, since there is increased competition.
So, our adventure began! First off, we stayed at the charming downtown boutique Hotel Lucia. The rooms are beautifully appointed, and our suite—at an affordable price—included a living room with a dining area and, not one, but two bathrooms! The hotel is in walking distance to many restaurants and attractions, so it’s a great location.
Our first stop upon arrival helped us get the lay of the land. A short walk away from our hotel is the newish Ritz-Carlton Portland, where the sky bar at Bellpine beckoned. We landed in Portland on a beautiful sunny day, so the lounge, set on the 20th floor of the hotel, had a clear and stunning view of Mount Hood. Service is friendly (if a bit slower than San Francisco), and the drinks pack a punch. We’ll have to return to sample the intriguing Mexican-inspired Pacific Northwest menu created by Executive Chef Pedro Almeida.
That night, Maya had hand-picked one of her favorite restaurants, Kachka. It’s a Jewish Eastern European inspired eatery with something that now has become a Gay Gourmet favorite: horseradish-infused vodka! Kachka makes their own (and sells it!); adding the tang and spice of horseradish to the buzz-worthy vodka makes for a winning combination. Among other favorites on this menu: caviar bites with smetana butter, challah, and white sturgeon caviar (a steal during happy hour for $35); chicken liver pashtet (pâté), with an unlikely but delicious accompaniment of prune butter (as good as my mother made, but she never made prune butter!); vereniki dumplings (we ordered the variation with farmer’s cheese, chive, and scallions, yum); beet salad with beet green and golden raisin jam, jonjoli (pickled flower buds), and shaved sulguni (traditional Georgian) cheese; sweet and sour cabbage rolls with beef, lamb, and pork; and assorted smoked fish.
Now, onto the main event: Laangbaan might be Portland’s premiere restaurant, having secured a James Beard Award for outstanding restaurant in 2024. According to the owners, “Langbaan is an intimate 24-seat restaurant located inside Phuket Cafe. The name Langbaan comes from the Thai word for the area in a Thai home where the kitchen and dining room are located, the area where meals are both prepared and lovingly eaten with family and friends. At Langbaan, inspired by the warm and convivial atmosphere of Thai kitchens, we transform classic Thai food into a refined multi-course tasting menu using the bounty of Pacific Northwest ingredients.”
But here’s the news: As first reported in The Oregonian, “Langbaan will return to the Eastside with its first standalone space this year, restaurateur Earl Ninsom said. Ninsom hopes to have Langbaan open in its new home—the former Bar Casa Vale—by October, just in time to celebrate the restaurant’s 12th anniversary with a dinner series featuring visiting chefs from around the world.”
As you enter the restaurant, Langbaan feels like a welcoming neighborhood spot, rather than a fine dining destination. Warm wood tones adorn the walls, and a radiating green hue backlights the bar, which creates a perfect glow throughout.
What’s better than having an executive chef be your guide for the evening at such an acclaimed establishment? Maya, who was overseeing the entire kitchen that night, literally took us by the hand and delivered a meal that hit the stratosphere. Langbaan delights in innovating traditional Thai dishes into something you’ve never tasted before. Take, for instance, an appetizer dish of Miang Som (normally consisting of shrimp, peanuts, coconut, and a sweet savory dressing wrapped in betel leaves), an offering that usually is distinctive for its pomelo. Langbaan incorporates Valencia orange instead, which offers an element of sweetness that is the perfect start to a meal. Or how about their version of Gaeng Kua Prik? The original is a dry curry made with pork ribs or minced meat, but this eatery uses pork coppa, heart of palm, and green beans. Other standouts included Jor Pak Guard and Jin-Som (pork, yu choy, and Northern Thai herb broth), as well as Gaeng Gra-Dang (a trout and steelhead terrine adorned with broccolini and fennel).
Creative cocktails add to the atmosphere, and I opted for the Charm Garden, a blend of Tanqueray Rangpur gin, Pisco, aromatic Thai garden syrup (lemongrass, ginger, Thai basil), and banana liqueur. Being purists, my husband and Larry opted for traditional sparkling wine and vodka libations. Wine pairings are also available, and include both local and European choices.
Service is friendly and hits the spot with detailed knowledge of the menu and its ingredients, as well as coordinating numerous dishes (and timing them appropriately) throughout the evening.
Saving the best for last, Maya’s talents as a pastry chef shine magnificently. A pandan mochi with jasmine ice cream and kiwi was the first of two outstanding offerings; and a lighter-than-air taro cake with raspberry, lychee, and coconut completed the meal—transporting us to some undisclosed tropical isle before we landed back in Portland.
Here are two other places of note for a cocktail: Buvons (which means, “Let’s drink!”) champagne bar in Southeast, which has sparkling wine offerings I’ve never seen before; and Café Nell in Southwest, a charming, intimate bar/restaurant where clearly the bartender knows everybody’s name.
Another must-see on your whirlwind weekend is the newly-renovated Portland Art Museum, where there is an excellent David Hockney show well worth your time. And, if time allows, here are a couple of other places to visit: the famous Japanese Garden, a 12.5-acre respite in the hills above Portland, as well as the Lan Su Chinese Garden right in the heart of downtown. Both are authentic landscape representations of different cultures that provide unique and easy-to-visit outdoor expeditions.
So, head to Portland! Great food, welcoming folks, and a host of attractions will make for an enticing adventure not far from us for a fun-filled weekend getaway.
Bits and Bites
Asia Live at Westfield Valley Fair is scheduled to open in June in Santa Clara. Drawing inspiration from San Francisco’s China Live, Asia Live (founded by George Chen and Cindy Wong-Chen) expands its focus in a sprawling 15,000-square-foot enclave to encompass the broader regions of Asia, offering guests an exploration of diverse culinary experiences.
I recently had the pleasure of dining back at Michelin-starred 7 Adams, where Los Angeles-based chef Max Boonthanakit of Michelin-starred Camphor fame held court with resident chef David Fisher in the kitchen. All I can say is, “Wow!” The combination of French, Southeast Asian, and California influences tantalized our palates and made us want to visit both restaurants more.
Hotel Lucia: https://www.hotellucia.com/
Ritz-Carlton Portland: https://tinyurl.com/yc3dbjdr
Kachka: https://www.kachkapdx.com/
Langbaan: https://www.langbaanportland.com/
Buvons: https://www.buvonspdx.com/
Café Nell: https://www.cafenell.com/
Portland Art Museum: https://portlandartmuseum.org/
Portland Japanese Garden: https://tinyurl.com/27jbpr48
Lan Su Chinese Garden: https://lansugarden.org/
Asia Live: https://asialivesv.com/
7 Adams: https://www.7adamsrestaurant.com/
Camphor: https://www.camphor.la/
ODC: https://odc.dance/
David Landis, aka “The Gay Gourmet,” is a foodie, a freelance writer, and a retired PR maven. You can email him at davidlandissf@gmail.com Or visit him online at: https://gaygourmetsf.com/
The Gay Gourmet
Published on May 21, 2026
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